html The Clock Project

Year 9 Industrial Technology Timber

Resources, Projects, and Content for Learning

Wooden Clock Project
Download Clock Plan (PDF)

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Clock Project Theory

Week 1: Safety and measuring wood

Safety first!

Always be safe when working with wood. Wear safety glasses and sturdy closed shoes. Keep the workshop tidy and put away pencils and tools after use. This keeps everyone safe and prevents trips or spills.

Measuring wood

We use a pencil and straight tools to mark wood before cutting. First, mark a “face” side and edge on your wood so all measurements start from the same spot. Remember: measure twice, cut once. This means check your measurement carefully before you cut. When you saw, cut on the waste side of the line (the part you don’t need) so the piece stays the right size.

Have you been paying attention? – Week 1 Quiz

  1. What should you wear in the workshop?




  2. Which tool checks that your angle is 90°?




  3. Why do we mark a "face" side of the wood?




  4. Where should you cut the wood relative to your mark line?




  5. What should you use to hold wood when cutting?




Conclusion

We learned to wear safety gear like glasses and to measure wood carefully. Mark one side of the wood and use clamps to hold it when cutting. Keep your area clean and be careful! These steps keep us safe and help make our measurements correct.

Week 2: Wood types and drilling holes

Hard and soft wood

Wood can come from many trees. Hardwoods (like oak or mahogany) are strong and heavy. Softwoods (like pine or cedar) grow fast and are easier to cut. For example, pine is a softwood and is lighter and easier to saw than oak.

Drilling holes

We use a drill press to make the big round hole for the clock face. The drill spins a bit (called a Forstner bit) very fast through the wood. Always clamp the wood down, keep fingers away, and wear safety glasses when drilling.

Have you been paying attention? – Week 2 Quiz

  1. Which wood is easier to cut by hand?




  2. Why do we clamp wood when using a drill press?




  3. What tool did we use to drill the hole for the clock face?




  4. What is a key difference between hardwood and softwood?




  5. Which of these is a softwood?




Conclusion

We learned that pine is a softwood and is easier to cut than heavy hardwood like oak. We also saw how to drill a hole safely. Clamping the wood and wearing safety glasses kept us safe while using the drill.

Week 3: Tree rings and drawings

Wood grain

Wood comes from trees. You can see rings in a tree cross-section; each ring is one year of growth. Knots are dark spots where branches grew. These patterns (grain) can make wood pretty but also affect how easy it is to cut.

Drawing our plan

Before building, we make drawings of our clock. Drawing (sketching) helps us see the shape and size of pieces. We use rulers and triangles to draw straight lines. This way we know what to build before we start cutting.

Have you been paying attention? – Week 3 Quiz

  1. What is a knot in wood?




  2. Why do we draw our clock design first?




  3. What tool do we use for drawing straight lines?




  4. How many rings does a tree usually get each year?




  5. What do we use to make sure corners are right angles in our drawing?




Conclusion

We saw that trees have rings for each year and knots where branches were. Drawing our clock plan with straight lines and corners helps us build it correctly. Using tools like a ruler keeps our drawings neat.

Week 4: Putting pieces together

Joining wood pieces

This week we put the clock sides, front, and back together. We cut slots (rebates) inside the body so the bottom and top fit in neatly. We used glue and clamps to hold everything square and tight. Taking time to align the pieces means the clock stands straight.

Tools and safety

We keep our tools sharp and clean so cuts are smooth and safe. After using a tool, we unplug or turn it off. Always check your saw and chisel are sharp so they do not slip. By taking care of our tools, we stay safe and the work looks better.

Have you been paying attention? – Week 4 Quiz

  1. What do we use to hold pieces in place while the glue dries?




  2. Why do we make sure all corners are square when assembling?




  3. What should you do with a tool after you use it?




  4. What is a rebate cut used for?




  5. Which tool keeps wood from splintering when sawing?




Conclusion

We fit the pieces of the clock body together and used glue with clamps so it stays square. We always turn off and store tools when we finish using them. Taking care of tools and checking pieces are straight makes our work safe and neat.

Week 5: Smoothing edges and gluing

Smoothing edges

We plane the top and bottom edges of the clock parts at a 45° angle, making a chamfer. This means the edges are slanted and smooth. A slanted edge looks nice and feels smooth. We always plane with the grain of the wood to avoid rough spots.

Gluing the clock body

Now we dry-fit all pieces and apply wood glue along the edges. We put glue between each joint and clamp the pieces together. We check that everything is lined up before the glue dries. Once clamped, we let the glue harden so the clock becomes one strong piece.

Have you been paying attention? – Week 5 Quiz

  1. What does 'chamfer' mean?




  2. When gluing pieces, what should we do before the glue dries?




  3. Which tool do we use to make the edges smooth?




  4. Why do we clamp the clock body after gluing?




  5. What is the shape of the edge after chamfering?




Conclusion

We made the edges smooth (chamfered) and glued all pieces to form the clock body. Planing created nice angles and gluing with clamps made the body solid. Checking that everything lines up before it dries helped us build a good strong clock body.

Week 6: Drying wood and building

Drying wood

Wood that is green (wet) can warp or twist as it dries. We learned about seasoning: air-drying outside or kiln-drying in a heated room. Dry wood is more stable and less likely to bend or crack later. Properly dried wood means our clock stays nice and straight.

Finishing assembly

After the glue dried, we removed clamps and checked the clock body. We sanded any rough edges so everything is smooth. We also made sure the hole for the clock face is nice and clean and attached the wood piece for the clock mechanism.

Have you been paying attention? – Week 6 Quiz

  1. Why do we let wood dry properly (season it)?




  2. What happens if we glue and clamp wood while it is still wet?




  3. After the glue dried and we unclamped, what did we do next?




  4. What part did we make sure was ready for the clock mechanism?




  5. What does "kIlN-dry" mean?




Conclusion

We learned that drying wood (seasoning) keeps it from warping later. We air-dried wood and then finished the clock assembly. After the glue was dry, we sanded and cleaned the clock and made sure the hole for the clock face was ready. Dry wood and a clean finish make our clock strong and nice.

Week 7: The secret drawer

Making the drawer

This week we make the secret drawer for the clock. We carefully cut out a slot in the body where the drawer will go. Then we cut and assemble the small wood pieces to form the drawer box and slide it in. We sand the drawer sides so it slides smoothly in and out of the clock.

Using wood wisely

We learned that wood comes from trees, which take a long time to grow. We try to use every bit of wood and recycle scraps. For example, if a piece of wood has a bad knot, we can use the good parts and not waste it. By using wood carefully, we help nature and save money.

Have you been paying attention? – Week 7 Quiz

  1. What did we make for the clock this week?




  2. Why do we use wood scraps and recycling?




  3. How do we make sure the drawer slides smoothly?




  4. What can happen if wood is not used carefully?




  5. Which video did we watch?




Conclusion

We cut and assembled the secret drawer, making sure it slides well by sanding. We also talked about using wood fully and recycling scraps. Using wood carefully means we don't waste trees and help keep the environment healthy.

Week 8: Wood list and cost

List of parts

This week we made a list of every piece of wood we need. We wrote down each part name, its length, width, and thickness. This cutting list shows exactly how many of each piece to cut. It helps us make sure we have all the pieces for the clock.

Counting cost

We also made a table with each piece’s price. We multiplied the length of wood by its price per length to find the cost. Then we added up the costs to see the total. Knowing the cost helps us learn how much money is needed and to use wood wisely.

Have you been paying attention? – Week 8 Quiz

  1. What is a cutting list?




  2. Why do we add up the cost of all wood pieces?




  3. What do we multiply to find the cost of wood?




  4. Why is it important to minimize waste of wood?




  5. What do we call the sheet where we list parts and costs?




Conclusion

We made a detailed list of all the clock parts and used a table (spreadsheet) to calculate cost. Adding up the prices of all pieces tells us the total cost. This helps us plan and make sure we don’t waste wood or money.

Week 9: Finish drawer and think about wood

Finishing the drawer

We glued and finished assembling the drawer box this week. We sanded it so it fit nicely in the clock and slides easily. We made sure the drawer face is level with the clock body and is easy to open and close.

Thinking about wood choices

We talked about the wood we used for the clock (like pine). Pine is easy to cut and cheap. We compared it to hardwood (like oak), which is stronger but heavier and more expensive. We discussed what we might do differently next time to make the clock better.

Have you been paying attention? – Week 9 Quiz

  1. Why did we sand the drawer?




  2. What happened to the drawer face when it was fitted?




  3. Which wood did we likely use for the clock?




  4. What is one reason to use hardwood instead of softwood?




  5. What could you do differently next time?




Conclusion

The drawer now fits well and the wood of our clock (pine) was easy to use. We discussed that oak is stronger but costs more. Next time we could try a different design or wood for practice. Thinking about choices helps us make better decisions.

Week 10: Cleaning the workshop

Workshop cleaning

We spent the class time cleaning the workshop. We swept the floor, wiped tables, and organized the tools. A clean workshop keeps everyone safe and makes it easier to work. Remember to put materials back and clear the benches when finished.

Taking care of tools

We also checked our tools. If a tool is dull, we sharpen it with a file or hone. We oil metal parts so they don’t rust. Keeping tools in good shape helps them work better and last longer.

Have you been paying attention? – Week 10 Quiz

  1. Why do we clean the workshop?




  2. What do we do if a tool is dull?




  3. Why do we oil metal tool parts?




  4. Which of these is a workshop chore?




  5. What do we do with tools at the end of class?




Conclusion

Cleaning makes the workshop safe and ready for the next project. We keep tools sharp and oiled so they last longer. Putting tools away and sweeping up after work are important habits in any workshop.

Week 11: Planning for safety

Writing a safety plan

We learned to list each step of our project and think about what could go wrong. This list is called a safety plan. For example, if we are cutting wood, a hazard is splinters or machine accidents. We then write how to stay safe: wear gloves and glasses, clamp the wood, and keep hands away from blades.

How to stay safe

We also talked about the order of doing things safely. First do the dangerous step (like cutting) with teacher help, then clean up. If something unsafe might happen, we either change how to do it or wear more protection (like ear plugs or a mask). It is like a rulebook for staying safe!

Have you been paying attention? – Week 11 Quiz

  1. What is a safety plan for our project?




  2. What should we do first when doing a dangerous task?




  3. Which of these is part of our safety plan?




  4. What does PPE stand for in safety?




  5. What might we do if a hazard is too big to fix easily?




Conclusion

By planning each step and thinking about dangers, we protect ourselves. Wearing glasses, keeping clean benches, and following the plan keeps us safe. Remember: if something seems dangerous, always ask the teacher or stop and find a safer way.

Week 12: Sanding wood

Sanding and smooth

We started sanding the clock wood this week. Sandpaper comes in rough, medium, and fine grit. We began with rough grit to remove big bumps, then used finer grits to make it very smooth. Sanding always goes with the wood grain to avoid scratches.

Getting ready for finish

After sanding, we cleaned off all dust. A clean, smooth surface is important so the finish will look nice. Our wood is now ready for the oil finish next week.

Have you been paying attention? – Week 12 Quiz

  1. Which grit sandpaper removes bumps fastest?




  2. Why do we sand along the grain of the wood?




  3. What is the final step after sanding?




  4. Why is sanding important before finishing?




  5. When using an orbital sander, what should you do?




Conclusion

We used coarse, medium, then fine sandpaper to make the clock wood smooth. Sanding with the grain and cleaning off the dust set us up well for the final finish. A smooth surface means our clock will have a nice look and feel.

Week 13: Oiling wood and talking

Applying the oil finish

We apply a clear oil finish to the wood. Oil soaks into the wood to protect it and make the color stand out. We use a clean rag to wipe the oil on along the grain. After it dries, we wipe off the extra oil. We may do more than one coat for a richer look.

Talking about our project

While the oil dries, we start talking about our project. We discuss what we liked and what we found hard. We answer questions: did our clock match our design? What would we do differently? This is called self-evaluation and helps us learn for next time.

Have you been paying attention? – Week 13 Quiz

  1. What does the oil finish do to the wood?




  2. How do we apply the oil?




  3. What do we do with oily rags after using oil?




  4. What does self-evaluation mean?




  5. Why is ventilation important when using finishes like oil?




Conclusion

The oil finish made our clock wood rich and protected. We remembered to let the oil dry and then think about how the project went. Talking about what went well and what was hard helps us learn and do better next time.

Week 14: Quiz and feedback

Theory quiz

We take a short quiz on what we learned: safety, tools, wood and processes. This helps everyone review important ideas. We discuss any tricky questions after the quiz so everyone understands the answers.

Unit feedback

After the quiz, we talk about the project unit. Each student can say what they enjoyed and what they found hard. We also help each other by giving suggestions. This feedback helps the teacher improve the project for next time.

Have you been paying attention? – Week 14 Quiz

  1. What is the quiz on this week about?




  2. Why do we discuss feedback after the quiz?




  3. What should we do after submitting the quiz?




  4. Who can give feedback on the unit?




  5. What is the purpose of a quiz on learning topics?




Conclusion

This week we reviewed everything and gave feedback on the project. The quiz helped us see what we remember, and talking about the unit helps everyone learn and have fun in the future.

Week 15: Show project and celebrate

Project presentations

We take turns to show our finished clocks to the class. Each student talks about their design and what they learned. It's like a show and tell: we see different styles of clocks and learn from each other’s work.

Final wrap-up

Finally, we clean up the workshop one last time and celebrate finishing our projects. We talk about all the new skills we learned: being safe, using tools, and making something from wood. This is the big finish of our clock project!

Have you been paying attention? – Week 15 Quiz

  1. What do we do with our clocks this week?




  2. Why do we clean the workshop again?




  3. What skills have we learned from the clock project?




  4. What is the mood at the end of the project?




  5. What do we usually do at the very end?




Conclusion

We showed our clocks and talked about all we learned. Our workshop is clean, and everyone did a great job. Celebrating our finished project is a fun way to end this unit!

Subject Program

Download the full subject program for Year 9 Industrial Technology Timber (Semester 1 and 2, including the Breadboard and Clock projects).

Syllabus

This section details the Year 9 syllabus, including key learning outcomes, safety protocols, environmental considerations, and practical applications.

Assessments

Details and schedules for assessments will be updated as the course progresses. This includes practical project submissions and theory tests, along with rubrics and guidelines for each task.

Clock Project Unit

This unit provides students with an opportunity to build on the fundamental skills learned in the Breadboard project by undertaking a more complex piece: a wooden clock with a hidden drawer. Over 15 weeks, students will exercise greater independence in design and construction decisions, applying advanced techniques in joinery and finishing while reinforcing safe work practices.

Summary & Duration

Duration: 15 Weeks (40-minute lessons, 4 per week)
Focus: Advanced measuring & cutting, joinery (rebate joints, chamfers), timber properties & sustainability, surface preparation & finishing, project evaluation.

Unit Overview

The “Clock” unit (Stage 5) encourages students to apply and extend their woodworking skills in a semi-autonomous project. Students will design and construct a free-standing wooden clock, incorporating features like a chamfered top and bottom and a secret drawer. Through this project, they will gain confidence in using both hand and power tools, learn about timber conversion and seasoning, and appreciate the importance of planning and evaluation. Practical and theoretical components of this unit together contribute 13% (practical) and 5% (theory) of the course assessment, aligning with syllabus outcomes.

Learning Outcomes & Assessment

Assessment: Practical – 13% | Theory – 5% (assessed via project work, folio, and a theory test)

Weekly Breakdown

Week 1: Introduction, Marking Out Front & Back

Content: Unit introduction and safety refresher. Mark out and cut the clock’s front and back panels to size, emphasising accurate measurements.

Theory: Review workshop safety rules (PPE, tool use) and introduction to marking tools (try square, marking gauge). Discuss design constraints for the clock project.

Practical: Demonstration of safe cutting techniques (tenon saw) and proper clamping. Students practise marking and cutting their front and back pieces on the waste side of the line.

Resources: Design Brief, Safety Guidelines, Google Classroom – Week 1.

Week 2: Cut & Dress Side Panels; Drill Clock Face Hole

Content: Mark, cut, and plane the two side panels of the clock. Drill a centered opening in the front panel using a Forstner bit for the clock face.

Theory: Differences between hardwoods and softwoods and their uses in projects. Introduction to basic timber joints (e.g., rebate) and hardware needs for the clock (like clock insert).

Practical: Use a hand plane to dress edges of side panels. Safely operate the drill press with a Forstner bit to create the clock face hole, under supervision. Emphasise grain direction when chiseling or refining joints.

Resources: SOP Drill Press (Forstner Bit), Google Classroom – Week 2.

Week 3: Timber Properties & Workshop Drawings

Content: Explore timber properties (grain, density, defects) and how they affect the project. Begin or review workshop drawings for the clock (isometric and orthogonal sketches of the design).

Theory: How trees grow (annual rings) and common timber defects (knots, warping). Risk management basics (hazard identification) as applied to project tasks. Discuss importance of planning with accurate drawings.

Practical: Continue any remaining cutting tasks (ensure front/back and sides match up). Reinforce proper hand tool use and accuracy to drawings. If time permits, start layout for internal supports (sub-top/bottom).

Resources: Drawing Exercise Sheets (Isometric & Orthographic), Google Classroom – Week 3.

Week 4: Assemble Main Body & Internal Rebates; Industry Methods

Content: Mark and cut internal rebates/grooves inside the clock body (for sub-top and sub-bottom panels). Begin assembling the main body (front, back, sides) with temporary clamps or fasteners, ensuring squareness.

Theory: Compare classroom woodworking methods with industry methods (e.g., hand-cut joints vs. CNC machining). Emphasise the importance of tool maintenance (sharp tools, machine upkeep) for quality and safety.

Practical: Cut rebates using appropriate tools (hand saw and chisel or router if available) inside the clock where the drawer will slide or where top/bottom panels fit. Dry-fit the front, back, and sides together and cheque alignment.

Resources: Industry Case Study (video) – Modern Woodworking Processes, Google Classroom – Week 4.

Week 5: Chamfer Top & Bottom Pieces; Glue Carcass

Content: Design and cut the clock’s top and bottom pieces (sub-top and sub-bottom), then plane decorative chamfers on their edges. Prepare for final assembly of the carcass.

Theory: Importance of grain orientation when planing (to avoid tear-out). Introduction to wood adhesives and why correct gluing technique matters. Brief discussion on how grain direction affects strength and appearance of joined pieces.

Practical: Use a hand plane (or router) to chamfer the top and bottom edges at 45°. Dry-fit all parts and then apply wood glue to join front, back, and side panels, as well as the chamfered top and bottom pieces. Clamp the carcass and cheque for squareness while drying.

Resources: Adhesives Guide, Google Classroom – Week 5.

Week 6: Timber Seasoning & Complete Carcass Assembly

Content: Learn about timber seasoning (drying processes) through a brief documentary or presentation. Finish assembling the carcass by ensuring all parts are flush and attaching the clock face mechanism backing.

Theory: Timber conversion and seasoning methods: compare air-drying vs kiln-drying and their pros/cons. Discuss how properly seasoned wood prevents issues like warping. Consider historical timber technologies (how wood was worked/dried in the past) for context. Introduce the concept of a hidden drawer design (planning how it will function).

Practical: Once glue has fully cured on the carcass, plane or sand the assembled clock to ensure all faces are flat and joints are smooth. Mark out the section of the clock body that will become the secret drawer (but do not cut yet). Possibly attach the clock face mount or ensure the drilled hole is ready for the clock insert.

Resources: Timber Seasoning Video, Google Classroom – Week 6.

Week 7: Cut Secret Drawer & Sustainability in Timber

Content: Create the secret drawer compartment: cut out the drawer opening from the clock body and cut timber pieces for the drawer itself. Focus on sustainable practices in woodworking and the timber industry.

Theory: Renewable vs non-renewable timber resources. Examples of recycling and reusing timber (e.g., old barn wood, plantation timbers). Environmental sustainability issues in the timber industry and how they are addressed (like plantation forestry and certified sustainable wood). Connect how making efficient use of materials (and even incorporating a small drawer) relates to reducing waste.

Practical: Carefully cut into the clock body to remove the section for the secret drawer (using a drill and coping saw or hand saw/chisel as needed). Cut and plane the small pieces that will form the drawer box. Also, use a router or rasp to put a 6mm chamfer around the inside edge of the clock face hole if a beveled edge is desired for the clock insert. Begin assembling the drawer, but leave final fitting for next week.

Resources: Sustainability in Timber (article), Google Classroom – Week 7.

Week 8: Materials Cutting List & Costing in Excel

Content: Shift focus to documentation: compile a cutting list of all parts of the clock with dimensions, and use a spreadsheet to calculate materials used and their costs. Ensure any remaining construction tasks are minimal to allow for this theory/application work.

Theory: The purpose of a cutting list in project planning. Basic budgeting for a project: calculating the cost of timber and hardware used. Using spreadsheet formulas to sum quantities and costs. Discussion of efficient material usage to minimise waste and cost (reinforcing sustainability).

Practical: In a computer lab or using personal devices, students input their clock’s parts into a simple spreadsheet (part name, dimensions, quantity, unit price) to practise calculating total material requirements and cost. Double-cheque the accuracy of their lists against the actual project. Any spare time can be used to finish sanding or minor construction tweaks on the clock.

Resources: Spreadsheet Template (Cutting List & Costing), Google Classroom – Week 8.

Week 9: Assemble & Fit Drawer; Reflect on Timber Choice

Content: Final assembly of the secret drawer and fitting it to the clock. Engage in a class exercise evaluating different timber options and how their properties would affect the project (reinforcing timber theory).

Theory: Analyse how the properties of the chosen timber (e.g., pine or other) influenced the building process and outcome. Consider alternative timbers: how would a hardwood vs a softwood perform for this project (durability, workability, appearance)? Discuss improvements: what could be done differently to improve the project if it were built again.

Practical: Assemble the drawer using glue (and small nails or screws if needed for strength). Plane and sand the drawer so it slides smoothly into the clock’s cavity. Make fine adjustments to the opening or drawer size as necessary for a good fit. Ensure the drawer face sits flush and is discreet. If hardware like a tiny handle or magnet catch is used, install it.

Resources: Timber Properties Comparison Chart, Google Classroom – Week 9.

Week 10: Workshop Maintenance & Clean-Up

Content: Dedicate time to comprehensive workshop maintenance. This includes cleaning workstations, organising tools, and safe storage of materials after the major construction phase. Emphasise how a clean, well-maintained workshop improves safety and project quality.

Theory: Safe workshop practices revisited: proper lifting techniques (to move timber or equipment), keeping walkways free of trip hazards, and collaboratively maintaining a tidy work environment. Discuss the impact of tool maintenance (sharp tools, oiled machines) on both safety and the quality of workmanship.

Practical: All students participate in cleanup: sweep floors, vacuum sawdust, return all tools to their proper storage, and report any damaged tools or dull blades for fixing. Conduct basic tool maintenance as a class (e.g., oiling metal tool parts to prevent rust, sharpening a chisel as a demonstration). By the end, the workshop should be reset for finishing tasks in coming weeks.

Resources: Workshop Maintenance Checklist, Google Classroom – Week 10.

Week 11: Safe Work Method Statement (SWMS)

Content: Complete a Safe Work Method Statement for the clock project. This formal document will list each step of the project alongside potential hazards and the measures taken to control risks. Ensure all students have documented the sequence of construction in their folio.

Theory: Risk management principles: the hierarchy of hazard control (eliminate, substitute, engineering controls, administrative controls, PPE). How planning and foresight improve safety. The role of SWMS in industry and how it applies to our project (ensuring any use of machines, e.g., drill press, had documented safety measures).

Practical: Students fill out or finalise their SWMS forms, identifying hazards they encountered (e.g., cutting with a saw, drilling, sanding) and writing down how they mitigated those risks (e.g., wearing safety glasses, using clamps, teacher supervision for certain tasks). Also, do a quick run-through of the project plan from start to finish and cheque if every step is accounted for and completed. This is also a chance to ensure their project folio is up to date with all required components (design sketches, cutting list, etc.).

Resources: SWMS Template & Example, Google Classroom – Week 11.

Week 12: Sanding & Surface Prep for Finishing

Content: Prepare the fully constructed clock for finishing. This involves thorough sanding of all surfaces (including the drawer and any edges) to achieve a smooth surface free of pencil marks, dents, or rough grain. Ensure the clock is clean and ready for applying a finish.

Theory: Reasons for surface preparation: a smooth surface ensures a better appearance and adhesion of finishes. Recap grit sizes for sandpaper and their uses (coarse vs fine). Emphasise sanding with the grain to avoid scratches. Briefly discuss why we apply finishes to timber (protection from moisture, enhanced appearance).

Practical: Start with medium-grit sandpaper and work through to fine grit on the entire clock and drawer. Use sanding blocks or orbital sanders where appropriate, but finish by hand to feel the smoothness. Students should frequently cheque that all sharp edges are slightly eased (for safety and a professional look). After sanding, have students remove all dust from their clock (using a brush or damp rag) in preparation for oiling next week.

Resources: Sanding Technique Video, Google Classroom – Week 12.

Week 13: Oil Finish Application & Self-Evaluation

Content: Apply a clear oil finish (e.g., Danish oil) to the clock project to protect the wood and bring out the grain. While the oil is drying between coats, begin a written self-evaluation of the project in the folio, reflecting on the process and outcome.

Theory: Overview of different timber finishes: oils (like Danish or linseed oil) versus varnishes, shellac, paint, etc., and where each is used. Focus on oil finishes as a simple, food-safe option that enhances natural look. Application techniques (rag vs brush) and safety precautions (proper ventilation, disposing of oily rags to prevent spontaneous combustion). Importance of self-evaluation in technology projects: understanding what went well, what challenges arose, and how problems were solved, to improve future work.

Practical: Students apply the first coat of oil finish to their clock and drawer – using a clean cloth to wipe on the oil along the grain. After allowing proper penetration time, wipe off excess to avoid stickiness. Set pieces aside to dry. During drying time, students work on their self-evaluation worksheets or folio entries, answering questions about their project (e.g., How closely did your final product meet your initial design? What would you do differently next time?). If time permits and oil is dry to touch, a second coat of oil can be applied for a richer finish.

Resources: Wood Finishes Info Sheet, Self-Evaluation Template, Google Classroom – Week 13.

Week 14: Theory Test & Unit Feedback

Content: A short theory test is administered covering key knowledge from the term (safety, tools, timber theory, processes). After the test, engage in class discussion and feedback. Students receive feedback on their projects and have an opportunity to give feedback on the unit.

Theory: The test will assess understanding of workshop safety rules, tool usage, timber properties, joinery, and finishing – essentially the theory topics learned throughout the Breadboard and Clock units. Post-test, discuss any challenging questions to clarify misconceptions. Emphasise the learning value of mistakes and correct answers. Additionally, discuss as a group what aspects of the project unit were most successful and what could be improved, both from the student perspective and for future classes.

Practical: (No practical work this week due to the theory assessment.) After the test, ensure all students have completed their folios and have prepared their projects for submission. This time can also be used for final touch-ups if absolutely needed or to quietly review feedback individually with students about their project craftsmanship and adherence to the brief.

Resources: Revision Materials, Student Feedback Form, Google Classroom – Week 14.

Week 15: Project Hand-In & Wrap-Up

Content: Finalise everything. Students submit their completed clock project and the accompanying workbook/folio for marking. Conclude the unit with a summary of what was learned and celebrate the students’ achievements.

Theory: (No new theory – this week focuses on concluding the unit.) Review the overall outcomes: Students can identify how they applied design principles, safe practices, and technical skills to create a quality project. Highlight the real-world connections of these skills and knowledge. Optionally, have a brief discussion on how these skills might be used in future projects or careers in design and technology.

Practical: Ensure each student properly labels their project and compiles all parts of their folio (design sketches, cutting list, SWMS, evaluation, etc.) for submission. The teacher may conduct a final inspection of each clock with the student, noting any creative features or well-done aspects, and any areas of difficulty. This can be a moment of informal presentation where students show their clock to peers and talk about something they learned. Finally, the class helps with any final clean-up and storage of projects awaiting marking.

Resources: Project Submission Checklist, Google Classroom – Week 15.

Main Theory Content

This section compiles detailed theoretical and explanatory content for the Clock project, presented week-by-week. It includes extra resources such as videos and readings that complement the hands-on work, ensuring you have a thorough understanding of woodworking concepts, safety practices, timber technology, and design principles as you complete the project.

Clock Project Theory

Week 1: Safety Refresher & Marking Out Basics

Introduction

Welcome to Week 1 of the Clock project. This week serves as an introduction and a refresher. We’ll revisit vital workshop safety rules and get started on the project by marking out the front and back panels of your clock. The goal is to ensure we all remember how to work safely and accurately before diving into building.

Safe Workshop Practices

Safety is the top priority in any workshop. Always remember to wear your personal protective equipment (PPE) such as safety glasses and leather shoes. When cutting or drilling, clamp materials securely so they don’t slip. Use a bench hook or vice when sawing the timber to keep your hands at a safe distance from the blade. We also revisited general machine safety even if we aren’t using power tools extensively yet – knowing the proper way to turn machines on and off and stand in the correct position is important.

An important habit is to maintain a clean work area. After marking your wood, keep pencils and tools off the floor to avoid tripping hazards. Also, practise proper lifting techniques (lift with your legs, not your back) when moving wood or equipment. These practices might seem simple, but they prevent accidents and injuries.

Marking Out with Accuracy

In this project, precision is crucial. We started by identifying a face side and face edge on our timber pieces. Marking a clear “V” or the word “face” on one flat side and an adjacent edge ensures you reference the same sides for all measurements, which improves accuracy. Using tools like a try square to mark right angles and a marking gauge to scribe parallel lines helps produce accurate cut lines. When you mark your measurements, remember to use a sharp pencil or even a marking knife for fine lines.

We emphasised the rule: measure twice, cut once. Double-cheque your measurements on the timber before cutting. Also, mark on the timber which side of the line is waste – you should cut on the waste side of the line. This means the saw blade should remove the part of the wood you don’t need, keeping your measured piece at the correct length. By cutting just next to the line (not through it), you ensure the final piece isn’t shorter than intended and you can always sand or plane to final size if needed.

Additional Resource: Using a Try Square

For more guidance on how to mark and cheque right angles accurately, read this short article on using a try square: How to Use a Try Square. It covers the basics of marking a 90° line and why having a true right angle is important when your pieces join together.

Discussion Questions

  1. Why is it important to choose and mark a face side and face edge on your timber before you begin measuring and cutting?
  2. What personal protective equipment (PPE) should you wear when cutting timber, and why?
  3. What does it mean to “cut on the waste side” of your marked line, and how does this practise affect the accuracy of your cut piece?
Have you been paying attention? – Week 1 Quiz

  1. When selecting timber for your clock project, which factor is most important?




  2. Which of the following is a correct safety practise in the workshop?




  3. The abbreviation WHS in school workshops stands for:




  4. Which of these is not considered personal protective equipment (PPE)?




  5. Students with long hair in the workshop should always:




  6. What kind of footwear is safest and required in the wood workshop?




  7. What is one of the first steps you should take when planning a new project (like our clock)?




  8. A good project plan should include:




  9. The term PPE stands for:




  10. At the end of each workshop session, you should:




Conclusion

By reinforcing safety practices and focusing on precise marking and measuring, we’ve laid a solid foundation for the Clock project. You have refreshed your knowledge of PPE, safe tool usage, and accurate marking out – all essential habits as we move forward. Keep these principles in mind; next week, we’ll build on this by cutting the clock’s side panels and introducing new concepts about timber types.

Week 2: Timber Types & Drilling Techniques

Introduction

Week 2 dives into preparing the clock’s side pieces and creating the opening for the clock face. Alongside the practical work, we explored the differences between hardwoods and softwoods – an important consideration when choosing materials for any project. We also introduced a new tool in our construction: the drill press with a Forstner bit, perfect for cutting clean, large holes.

Hardwoods vs Softwoods

Woods are broadly categorised into hardwoods and softwoods, but the naming can be misleading. Hardwoods come from deciduous trees (like oak, maple, mahogany) and often have denser wood and attractive grain patterns. Softwoods come from coniferous trees (like pine, cedar, spruce) and usually grow faster, often making them less dense. For example, pine (a common softwood) is typically lighter and easier to cut, whereas oak (a hardwood) is heavier and can be more challenging to saw or nail.

In our project, we likely use a softwood (such as pine) due to its availability and ease of use for beginners. It’s important to know that softwoods are not always “soft” – some softwoods (like Douglas fir or yew) can be quite hard. Similarly, hardwoods aren’t always extremely hard (balsa wood is a hardwood but one of the softest woods). The key differences lie in their structure: hardwoods have pores (vessels) in their grain, softwoods do not, and instead may have resin canals.

Understanding these differences matters because it affects workability and suitable use. Hardwoods are often chosen for fine furniture or projects needing durability and wear resistance. Softwoods are commonly used in construction and projects where large pieces are needed cost-effectively. In our clock, either type could be used, but a softwood like pine is sufficient and more user-friendly for cutting and joining. If you’re curious for more detail on how hardwoods and softwoods compare in density, grain, and uses, the following resource is helpful.

Additional Resource: Wood Characteristics

For a deeper comparison of hardwoods vs. softwoods, including examples and typical uses, cheque out this guide to wood characteristics. It explains why certain woods are chosen for specific projects (for instance, why builders use pine for framing houses but oak for a tabletop).

Drilling the Clock Face Opening

This week you saw the drill press in action with a Forstner bit. A Forstner bit is a drill bit that cuts clean, flat-bottomed holes. It was the ideal choice to create the round hole in the front panel for our clock face insert. We learned the setup: secure the front panel on the drill press table with a clamp, choose the correct diameter Forstner bit (slightly larger than the clock mechanism or insert diameter to allow a fit), and drill at a slow, steady feed. Safety points include always using a clamp (never hand-hold work on a drill press) and wearing safety glasses because the bit produces a lot of shavings quickly.

We also discussed “step drilling” – if you ever need to drill an extra large hole but don’t have one big bit, you can drill a smaller pilot hole first or work up in bit sizes. However, in our case, we had the right tool for the job. You probably noticed how the Forstner bit’s centre point keeps it steady while the sharp rim scores the circle; this design is what gives such a neat cut without tear-out if used properly.

Joinery Planning & Grain Direction

While working on the side panels, we’ve started to think about how everything will join together. The term “rebate” joint came up – this is a type of joint where a groove or notch (a rebate) is cut at the edge of one piece so another piece can fit into it. We haven’t cut rebates yet (that’s coming soon), but planning for them matters now. For instance, if the sides of the clock will eventually get a rebate to accept the back panel, we must ensure our side panels have enough thickness and aren’t tapered off by over-planing edges.

Another concept is grain direction. When you were planing the long edges of your side panels to smooth them, you might have noticed planing “against the grain” caused tear-out (little splinters lifting up). The solution was to plane “with the grain” – that is, in the direction that the wood fibers lie down. This same idea will apply later when we cut joints or chamfers; paying attention to grain can mean the difference between a clean cut and a rough one. Additionally, grain direction affects strength: wood is generally strongest along the grain. We will see this when we consider how to orient pieces for the best strength (for example, the clock’s top and bottom pieces should have grain running along their length for strength).

Discussion Questions

  1. Pine is a softwood and oak is a hardwood. Based on what you learned, which would be easier to saw by hand and why?
  2. What tool did we use to drill the large hole for the clock face, and what makes that tool suitable for this task?
  3. When using the drill press, why is it important to clamp down your workpiece rather than holding it with your hand?
Have you been paying attention? – Week 2 Quiz
  1. A carpenter’s triangle square tool

    What is the tool shown in the image used for?




  2. Why do we mark a “face side” and “face edge” on a piece of timber before measuring and cutting?




  3. When measuring and cutting wood, why should you cut on the “waste side” of your marked line?




  4. The saying “measure twice, cut once” reminds us to:




  5. In woodworking, saying a corner is “square” means that it:




  6. Why is it important that the pieces of your clock are cut square (with true 90° corners)?




  7. In technical drawings and measurements for woodworking, dimensions are typically given in:




  8. The best tool to use for marking straight cutting lines on wood is a:




  9. If you need multiple pieces of wood at the same length, how can you ensure they are all equal?




  10. Before cutting or marking a piece of wood, you should always:




Conclusion

Week 2 equipped you with essential knowledge about timber selection and introduced you to using the drill press for precision tasks. You’ve successfully prepared the fundamental pieces of your clock (front, back, and sides) and created a perfect circular opening for the clock face. Understanding wood types will help you appreciate why we use certain materials, and the practical drilling skills you learned will be invaluable for any project requiring clean holes. Next week, we’ll build on this by examining wood properties more closely and developing the drawings and plans for the clock.

Week 3: Wood Properties & Project Planning

Introduction

Week 3 centered on deepening our understanding of the material we work with – wood – and making sure our project plans are solid. You learned about the internal structure of wood and some common defects that can occur. We also took time to work on workshop drawings for the clock, which are like a roadmap for our build. By solidifying the theory behind wood properties and visualising the project on paper, we are better prepared to carry out the remaining construction steps accurately.

Understanding Timber Structure

To truly understand wood, it helps to know how a tree grows. If you’ve seen the circular rings in a tree stump, you know that each ring represents one year of growth. These growth rings form because trees grow faster in spring (producing lighter, wider-grain wood) and slower in late summer (darker, denser wood). By the time a tree is cut into lumber, these rings appear as lines or patterns we call the grain.

The grain isn’t just for looks – it affects how wood behaves. Wood is anisotropic, meaning its properties change depending on direction. For example, wood is strongest along the grain (that’s why you try to align grain along the length of a table leg, for strength) and weakest across the grain (wood splits easier along the grain lines). We also discussed wood’s moisture content: fresh-cut wood (called green wood) contains a lot of water in its cells. As it dries, it shrinks a bit and can distort. That’s why wood is seasoned (dried) before use – more on seasoning in Week 6.

We looked at a cross-section diagram of a tree and identified the heartwood (the older, often darker, inner wood) and sapwood (younger, outer wood). Heartwood tends to be more durable and less prone to rot because it can contain stored compounds; sapwood is usually lighter and where the tree’s active water transport happens. This can matter: some projects avoid sapwood for consistency in colour or properties, while others don’t mind. For our clock, either is fine as long as the wood is dry and sound.

Timber Defects

No piece of wood is perfect. We identified common defects in timber:

  • Knots: These are the round, darker spots where branches were. Knots are harder than the surrounding wood and can be tricky – they might fall out or cause a tool to jump if not careful. They do add character to how the wood looks.
  • Warping: This includes twists, bows, or cups in a board. Wood can warp if it dries unevenly or if it’s cut from a certain part of the log. That’s why properly seasoning wood (and sometimes cutting it in specific ways, like quarter-sawing) reduces warping.
  • Cracks/Splits: Sometimes called checks, these are fractures usually at the ends of boards where drying started too fast. A split can weaken a piece. We ensure our clock panels don’t have major splits for structural reasons.
  • Gum Veins or Resin Pockets: Especially in species like pine, you might see lines or pockets of resin (sap that hardened). These don’t usually cause structural issues, but they can clog sandpaper and affect finishing (stains might not take evenly).

Recognising defects is important. For instance, if you have a knot right where you need to drill or cut a joint, you might reposition your template or choose a different piece of wood. In our class, we tried to place templates (like the clock face hole) in clear wood areas to avoid these problems.

Additional Resource: Wood Defects

For pictures and more detailed explanations of wood defects, visit this resource on timber defects. It shows examples of knots, warping, and other imperfections and discusses how they affect the use of the wood.

Workshop Drawings

We transitioned from theory to planning by working on workshop drawings for the clock. There are a couple of types:

  • Orthographic projection: This is a set of flat views (front, side, top) of an object. We practiced drawing at least two views of the clock (for example, front view showing the clock face and drawer, and a side view showing its depth). These drawings are to scale or with dimensions labeled, so they guide construction accurately.
  • Isometric sketch: This is a 3D representation drawn at a 30° angle, which gives a clear idea of what the finished clock will look like. It’s not always to scale, but it’s useful for visualising and communicating design ideas. Many of you sketched an isometric view of the clock to include in your folio.

Making these drawings helps in a few ways. It forces you to think through the project – how will pieces fit together, and what are their exact sizes? It often reveals if something was missing in the plan (for example, if you forgot to account for the thickness of the timber in the overall width). Moreover, if someone else saw your drawings, they should have enough information to build the clock themselves. That’s the ultimate test of a good technical drawing.

We also used the drawings to double-cheque our cutting list. By having every part drawn and labeled, you can cross verify all parts are accounted for and have correct dimensions. This practise of drawing and listing prevents issues like cutting a piece to the wrong size or forgetting a piece entirely.

Discussion Questions

  1. Name one natural defect in wood and describe how it might affect your clock project.
  2. Why is it useful to create an orthographic or isometric drawing before (or while) building your project?
  3. How do growth rings (the tree’s annual rings) relate to the strength or stability of a piece of timber?
Have you been paying attention? – Week 3 Quiz

  1. What is the safest way to begin cutting a piece of wood with a hand saw?




  2. When cutting wood, why is it important to pay attention to the direction of the grain?




  3. A butt joint is a type of wood joint where:




  4. Which joint involves cutting a channel or shoulder (a “step”) in one piece of wood so that another piece can fit into it at right angles?




  5. After making saw cuts to outline a rebate joint, which hand tool is commonly used to remove the waste wood and clean up the corner of the joint?




  6. Which of these is a safe practise when using a hand saw?




  7. Compared to joints like dovetails or mortise-and-tenon, butt joints are:




  8. Which tool would be best to cut a curved shape or opening (like a round clock face hole) by hand in a piece of wood?




  9. Before using any tool (hand tool or power tool) you should:




  10. For drilling a hole safely with a power drill or drill press, you should:




Conclusion

In Week 3, you gained insight into the very material you’re crafting with – wood – learning how its natural properties can influence your work. You also translated your project into technical drawings, bridging the gap between concept and reality. With a solid understanding of timber characteristics and a clear project plan in hand, you’re well-prepared to continue building. Next, we’ll apply this knowledge as we cut joinery and start assembling parts, while also looking at how our classroom techniques compare to what professionals do in industry.

Week 4: Main Body Assembly & Rebate Joints

Introduction

In Week 4, you moved from preparing individual pieces to assembling the main body of the clock. This week’s practical focus was on joining the front panel to the side panels (forming the basic carcass of the clock) and introducing the rebate joint to recess the back panel. By the end of the week, you had a three-sided frame (front and sides) clamped and glued up, and you practiced cutting neat rebates along the inside edges in preparation for fitting the back. We also connected what we’re doing in class to real-world woodworking by discussing how industry uses similar joints and techniques on a larger scale.

Cutting Rebate Joints by Hand

A rebate joint (also known as a rabbet joint in the US) is a simple but effective way to join two pieces at right angles by removing a portion of one piece’s edge so that another piece can sit into it. This week, we marked and cut rebates on the inside back edges of the side panels (and prepared for similar cuts on the top and bottom pieces) to eventually let the back panel fit flush. To cut the rebate by hand, we used a combination of saw and chisel. First, you marked out the area to remove: the depth of the cut equal to the thickness of the back panel. Using a try square and marking gauge, you drew lines to guide your saw cut – one line across the width of the side panel where the rebate would stop, and another along the edge to indicate the depth.

After securely clamping the wood, you made careful saw cuts down the shoulder (the cross-grain cut) and along the cheek (with the grain). We used a tenon saw to ensure straight, controlled cuts. Once the waste section was sawed, you chiseled out the remaining wood in the notch, working slowly and keeping the chisel bevel down for control. It was important to chisel *with* the grain where possible to avoid splitting beyond the intended line. The result is a right-angled notch where the back panel’s edge will eventually sit. We discussed how a properly cut rebate increases the gluing surface area and helps align the pieces during assembly, making the joint stronger and the back panel flush with the sides.

Assembling the Clock’s Carcass

With the front and side panels prepared, you proceeded to assemble the main body (or carcass) of the clock. This involved applying wood glue to the mating surfaces (the ends of the side panels and the inside edges of the front panel) and clamping them together at a perfect 90° angle. We used corner clamps and checked with a try square to ensure the front and sides met cleanly. **Why glue and not nails or screws?** At this stage, the joints are primarily simple butt joints reinforced by the upcoming rebates and back panel. Wood adhesive (PVA glue) provides a surprisingly strong bond when the surfaces fit well. By clamping the assembly firmly, we squeezed out any gaps (excess glue that seeped out was wiped away to keep the project neat). After the glue set, the front and sides formed a rigid U-shaped structure.

Patience was key here – we let the glued frame dry sufficiently (at least 30 minutes under clamp pressure) before moving it. This prevented stressing the joints while the glue cured. The class also noted how **squaring up** the assembly now makes everything easier down the line: if the carcass is assembled out of square, the clock face or back panel might not fit properly. By the end of the session, you had a sturdy three-sided carcass. The back panel was left off for now, since we’ll fit it after cutting all rebates and when we’re ready to enclose the clock’s insides. This approach also made clamping and later steps (like inserting the clock mechanism or finishing the interior) more manageable.

Industry Insight: Joinery at Scale

During theory time, we looked at how the same principles are applied in the woodworking and cabinetmaking industry. In a factory or professional workshop, a rebate joint is extremely common – for example, cabinet backs and drawer bottoms are often set in rebates. However, instead of cutting them by hand, tradespeople might use power tools like a router with a rebate bit or a table saw with a dado blade to cut the notch quickly and accurately. We watched a short segment of a woodworking video showing a router effortlessly cutting a long, even rebate. This highlighted why learning the hand method is still valuable: it gives you understanding of the joint’s purpose and challenges, so you know what a good tight rebate looks like. In industry, knowing *why* a rebate is used (to add strength and alignment) is as important as knowing how to cut one. We also discussed how quality control in manufacturing ensures joints like these are consistent for every product. Your experience with hand tools this week mirrors, on a smaller scale, what larger shops do with machinery – the concepts of measuring carefully, securing workpieces, and aiming for a flush, strong joint remain the same.

Additional Resource: Joinery in Practise

For more about how and where rebate (rabbet) joints are used in woodworking projects (such as cabinets and picture frames) and an overview of similar joints, cheque out this explanatory guide: Understanding Dado, Groove, and Rabbet Joints. It illustrates why woodworkers choose these joints and one method of making them (in larger scale productions or with machines).

Discussion Questions

  1. What advantages does a rebate joint have over a simple butt joint when joining two pieces of timber at a right angle?
  2. Which tools did you use to cut the rebate joint by hand, and why is each tool important in the process?
  3. When gluing the front and side panels together, why is it important to cheque that the assembly is square (90°)? How might an out-of-square carcass affect the final clock?
Have you been paying attention? – Week 4 Quiz

  1. What is a rebate joint?




  2. Why did we cut rebates on the inside edges of the clock’s side panels?




  3. Which tool was **not** used to create the rebate joint in class?




  4. When gluing the front and sides of the clock together, why did we use clamps?




  5. What does cutting on the “waste side” of the line achieve when making joints like rebates?




  6. In a professional workshop, which tool is commonly used to cut a rebate joint much faster than by hand?




  7. Before applying glue and clamping, what dry-fitting step did we perform when assembling the clock’s main body?




  8. Which statement about the rebate joint is **true**?




  9. If a glued joint is not clamped and allowed to dry freely, what is a likely outcome?




  10. When checking the assembled frame of the clock (front and sides), what did we use to verify it was “square”?




Conclusion

By the end of Week 4, you transformed a collection of flat panels into a sturdy three-dimensional structure. In doing so, you learned how a rebate joint adds strength and neatness to a corner and practiced careful gluing and clamping techniques. This week underscored the value of precision and patience – your clock’s carcass is now square, secure, and ready for the next steps. With the main body assembled, you’re well prepared to add the remaining pieces (like the top, bottom, and later the drawer) and know that a strong foundation will make the rest of the project go smoothly.

Week 5: Top & Bottom Chamfers; Body Assembly Completion

Introduction

Week 5 was all about adding the “lid” and “base” of your clock and giving them a professional touch. We took the top and bottom pieces of the clock, cut them to size, and then used hand planes to put a chamfer on their edges. A chamfer is a small 45° bevel cut along an edge, and it instantly improves the look of the piece by breaking sharp corners and catching the light. After chamfering, you glued and clamped the top and bottom onto the clock’s body (the carcass from last week), completing the basic structure of the clock. This was a satisfying milestone: the project now actually looks like a clock case, and you honed two important skills – precise planing and proper gluing techniques.

Chamfering Edges with a Hand Plane

Creating an even chamfer by hand is a classic woodworker’s skill. We started by marking out guidelines on the top and bottom pieces. Using a pencil, you lightly drew a line a set distance from the edge (for example, ~5 mm in from the edge on the top face, and a similar line on the adjacent side face). These lines served as boundaries so you would know when to stop planing – essentially outlining the width and depth of the chamfer. With the piece secured in a vice or with clamps, you held a block plane at roughly a 45° angle and began shaving off the corner, from the top pencil line down to the side pencil line.

It’s important to plane in the correct direction: just like with any planing or chiseling, going “with the grain” yields a smoother cut, whereas going against it can cause tear-out. Many of you noticed that from one end of the board, the plane produced smooth curls of shavings, but starting from the opposite end tended to lift the grain. The remedy was to plane from each end toward the middle if needed, or adjust your angle, to always cut with the grain. As you planed, you checked that the chamfer was developing evenly. The goal was a consistent width of the beveled edge all along each side of the piece. Taking light cuts is key – thin shavings give you control and a cleaner finish. If one spot had a thicker chamfer than the rest, we guided you to plane a bit more on either side to even it out rather than continuing to dig into the low spot.

By practising on a scrap piece first, you got a feel for the correct angle and pressure. Once confident, you chamfered the visible edges of the top and bottom pieces of your clock. Why chamfer at all? Besides looking nice (it gives a shadow line and makes the clock look less “blocky”), chamfering removes the sharp 90° corners that could splinter or even cause injury. It’s a simple detail that improves both aesthetics and safety. We discussed how chamfers (or similar edge treatments like round-overs) are common in furniture. This experience also further improved your plane-handling skills – controlling a plane for a precise bevel is a bit trickier than planing a flat face, and now you’ve done it!

Gluing the Top and Bottom in Place

After chamfering, the top and bottom pieces were ready to attach. This step essentially “sealed” the carcass, turning your open-ended frame into a fully enclosed box (minus the back and drawer opening). We did a dry-fit first: placing the top and bottom on the carcass to ensure they sat correctly – edges flush, and no gaps. Because of the careful measuring and cutting in prior weeks, everything aligned well. You then applied an even layer of wood glue (PVA) to the contact surfaces: the top edges of the front, side panels and any part of the back edge that the top piece would touch, and similarly for the bottom piece. It was important to use the right amount of glue – enough to bond, but not so much that it flooded out over your nice chamfers. (Any squeeze-out that did appear was quickly wiped off with a damp rag to prevent staining the wood.)

We placed the top piece on and ensured equal overhang (if the top was cut a little larger for a lip) or perfect alignment (if it was cut flush with the sides). Clamps were then used to press the top down onto the carcass while the glue set. We were careful to put scrap wood pads under the clamp jaws where they touched the chamfered edges, to avoid denting the nicely planed bevels. For the bottom piece, the process was the same: align it carefully and clamp it up. We checked all around to confirm that the top and bottom were sitting properly – a common mistake can be slight shifting under clamp pressure. Using a square and measuring tape, we verified that both the top and bottom pieces were centered and the clock’s sides were not bowed out or pulled in.

This stage also reinforced good glue-up practices. For instance, we talked about working time: standard PVA gives you a few minutes to adjust parts before it starts to grab, so you must get clamps on and make adjustments efficiently. We also mentioned that glue reaches full strength after about 24 hours, although it sets much sooner. In class, we left the clamps on until the next session to be safe. Once unclamped, the clock’s structure was complete and solid. Many of you tapped the top or side of your clock and remarked how “finished” it suddenly felt now that it has a top and bottom!

Additional Resource: Wood Adhesive Tips

Attaching pieces with glue might seem straightforward, but technique matters. If you’re curious about best practices for gluing wood (like how much glue to use, clamping strategies, and avoiding glue mess), have a look at this guide on wood gluing techniques. It offers tips on making strong glue joints and explains why properly clamped, tight-fitting joints are critical for strength.

Discussion Questions

  1. In your own words, what is a chamfer and why did we add chamfers to the top and bottom pieces of the clock?
  2. What hand tool did you use to create the chamfer, and how did you ensure your chamfer was even along the entire edge?
  3. Why is it important to plane or cut “with the grain” when making a chamfer? What can happen if you go against the grain?
  4. When gluing the top and bottom onto the clock, what did you do to make sure each piece was positioned correctly before the glue dried?
  5. We used scrap wood pads between the clamps and the chamfered edges while clamping. What was the purpose of those pads?
Have you been paying attention? – Week 5 Quiz

  1. What is the purpose of chamfering the edges of the top and bottom pieces?




  2. Which tool is specifically used to cut a chamfer on a wooden edge by hand?




  3. When planing a chamfer, why should you pay attention to the wood grain direction?




  4. Before gluing the top and bottom pieces, we did a “dry fit.” What is a dry fit?




  5. Which adhesive are we primarily using to glue the wooden parts of the clock?




  6. Why did we put small pieces of scrap wood between the clamps and the chamfered edges when clamping the top and bottom?




  7. After applying glue to the top piece and setting it in place, what was the next immediate step?




  8. If too much glue squeezes out of a joint when clamping, what should you do?




  9. Approximately how long should wood glue set (under clamps) before you handle or remove clamps from a joint?




  10. Now that the top and bottom are attached, what is the only major piece still **not** attached to the clock carcass at this stage?




Conclusion

In Week 5, you put the “roof and floor” on your clock project, transforming it into a complete enclosure (aside from the back and drawer). You learned how small details like chamfers can elevate the quality of your work, and you got comfortable using a hand plane for precision work. By successfully gluing the top and bottom in place, you’ve completed the core assembly of the clock. The skills practised – from careful measuring and planing to proper clamping and gluing – are fundamental in woodworking. Now that the clock’s body is fully assembled, you’re ready to tackle the remaining elements (like the back panel, drawer, and finishing touches) with a strong structure in hand and growing confidence in your techniques.

Week 6: Timber Seasoning & Material Stability

Introduction

Week 6 shifted gears from hands-on building to understanding an important theory behind our material: timber seasoning. At this point, your clock carcass is assembled and we took a brief pause from construction to dive into *why* the wood behaves the way it does. You watched a documentary segment on how timber is seasoned (dried) and completed an exercise about moisture content and wood stability. The goal this week was to connect the quality of our timber to its preparation process. Properly seasoned wood is essential for a successful project – if we had used wet or “green” wood, our carefully made clock could warp or joints might loosen over time. Through video and discussion, you learned what happens to wood from the time it’s a freshly cut log to when it becomes the dry boards we’re using in class.

Why Wood Needs Seasoning

Timber seasoning is the process of removing moisture from wood to prepare it for use. When wood is first cut from a tree (called green timber), it can contain a lot of water – often 50% or more of the wood’s weight is water. If you try to build with green timber, a few bad things can happen: as the wood dries out naturally, it will shrink, and it may warp (bend or twist) or crack. This could ruin the shape of your project or weaken the joints. Additionally, high moisture content makes wood susceptible to fungal attack (mould and rot love damp wood). By seasoning timber down to a suitable moisture level (for most indoor projects, around 10–15% moisture content), we ensure the wood is dimensionally stable and will remain strong and straight in the long term.

In class, we examined a cross-section of a tree and talked about where the water resides (in the cell cavities and cell walls of the wood). As wood dries, free water leaves first, then bound water in cell walls, causing the wood to shrink slightly. We discussed terms like equilibrium moisture content (EMC) – wood eventually dries to match the humidity of its environment. Timber used in New South Wales for indoor furniture is typically dried to around 12% EMC so that it won’t significantly swell or shrink in the average home environment. This week’s theory made it clear that the lumber we used for the clock had been properly seasoned, which is why your clock’s panels have stayed straight since Week 1!

Methods of Seasoning: Air Drying vs Kiln Drying

There are two primary methods to season timber: air drying and kiln drying. You learned about both through the documentary and our discussion afterward. In air drying, cut boards are stacked in the open air (but under cover, to avoid rain) with small sticks or spacers between them (these spacers are called stickers) to allow airflow. This method is slow – it can take many months or even years for thick wood to dry this way – but it’s energy-efficient and gentle. We saw images of timber yards with long stacks of wood drying naturally. Air-dried wood often ends up around 12–18% moisture content, depending on climate and storage, which can be fine for outdoor use or initial drying before kiln.

Kiln drying is a faster, more controlled process. A kiln is like a big oven for wood where temperature, humidity, and air circulation are carefully managed. Fresh wood can be dried to a desired moisture level in a matter of days or weeks in a kiln. The documentary showed how boards are loaded into a kiln chamber and dried using heat (and sometimes steam at intervals to prevent overly rapid drying that could cause cracks). Kiln drying can bring wood down to a lower moisture content (such as 8–12% easily) which is ideal for indoor furniture. The trade-off is that it requires energy and equipment. We also noted that kiln drying can kill any insects or larvae in the wood (a bonus for ensuring timber is pest-free).

We discussed the pros and cons: air drying costs less and uses no electricity, but you have less control and it takes a long time; kiln drying is efficient and precise, but expensive and can sometimes cause internal stresses if done too quickly. Modern lumber production often uses a combination: air dry for a while, then finish in a kiln. As a class, we related this back to our clock project by considering what would happen if our pine hadn’t been dried properly – the front panel with the clock face hole might warp and jam the mechanism, or the carefully fit back panel might no longer sit flush in its rebate if the wood shrank. This is why all commercial timber you buy for projects comes seasoned.

Recognising Well-Seasoned Timber

You also learned some practical ways to tell if wood is seasoned. One is by using a moisture meter – a tool that can be pressed against the wood to electronically measure its moisture content. (We didn’t have one to try, but we saw a demonstration on video.) Other clues include looking for signs of warping or checking (small end cracks) which might indicate uneven drying. Properly seasoned wood tends to feel lighter than green wood of the same size and often makes a clearer “knock” sound when you tap it, whereas green wood sounds dull. We also touched on the concept of timber conversion – how the log was cut (quarter-sawn vs plain-sawn) can affect how it moves when drying, but that’s a deeper topic.

As part of the exercise, you answered questions about why builders prefer seasoned timber and how environmental humidity can affect wood even after it’s seasoned. For instance, we asked: What might happen to a door made of solid wood if the house gets very humid in summer? (Answer: it might swell a bit and stick, because wood can still absorb moisture from the air.) The takeaway is that wood is an organic material that reacts to moisture – but by proper seasoning, we minimise those reactions. This knowledge will help you not just with this clock project, but any time you work with wood in the future, because you’ll know to consider moisture and stability in your designs.

Additional Resource: Benefits of Seasoning Timber

For further reading on why seasoning is so important (especially in construction and furniture making), cheque out the article “Advantages of Timber Seasoning in the Building Industry”. It outlines how properly seasoned wood is stronger, less likely to decay, and maintains its shape, summarising the key advantages we discussed in class.

Discussion Questions

  1. Why is it not a good idea to build a clock or piece of furniture out of wood that is freshly cut (green) from a tree?
  2. Explain the difference between air drying and kiln drying wood. What are the benefits of each method?
  3. How does humidity in the environment affect seasoned timber over time? Can wood still move after it’s been seasoned?
Have you been paying attention? – Week 6 Quiz

  1. What does it mean for timber to be “seasoned”?




  2. Approximately what percentage of moisture might green (freshly cut) timber contain?




  3. Which of these is NOT a problem that seasoning wood helps to prevent?




  4. What is the main difference between air seasoning (air drying) and kiln seasoning?




  5. All of these are *advantages* of kiln drying timber EXCEPT:




  6. Why is seasoned timber usually stronger and more stable than green timber?




  7. If a piece of wood is labeled at 12% moisture content, what does that indicate?




  8. Even after wood is fully seasoned, which of these statements is true?




  9. Which method would a large timber company most likely use to dry wood intended for furniture as quickly as possible?




  10. If an indoor wooden table was made from wood that wasn’t fully seasoned, what might you observe after a few months in a heated house?




Conclusion

This week’s focus on timber seasoning gave you a deeper appreciation of the material you’re working with. You learned that the stability and quality of your clock owes a lot to the fact that the wood was properly dried before we ever cut into it. Understanding seasoning is essential for any woodworker: it explains why wood behaves the way it does over time. Now, when you see wooden furniture or handle materials for projects, you’ll be aware of the unseen preparation that makes those items durable. With this knowledge, you’re better equipped to choose and work with timber in the future. As we return to practical work, remember that using well-seasoned wood is one of the reasons our projects succeed. It’s one more piece of the puzzle in becoming a skilled woodworker – marrying theoretical knowledge with hands-on practise.

Week 7: Cut Secret Drawer & Sustainability in Timber

Introduction

Welcome to Week 7 of the Clock project. This week we pause from major construction to focus on sustainability and the environment. As you begin creating the clock’s secret drawer compartment, we’ll explore where timber comes from and how our choices in materials and design can impact the world around us. Understanding concepts like renewable resources, plantation timber, and recycling will help you become a more responsible designer and builder.

Renewable vs Non-Renewable Resources

Timber is a renewable resource – it comes from trees that can be replanted and grown again. This is different from non-renewable resources like coal or oil (which can’t be replaced once used) or even metals (which are finite in the ground). When forests are managed properly, new trees are planted to replace those harvested, ensuring we don’t run out of wood. Using timber from well-managed forests means we’re using a material that can keep regenerating, rather than depleting something forever. In contrast, if we cut trees faster than they regrow or clear forests without replanting, even wood could become a non-renewable resource in practise. The key is responsible management so that timber remains a resource future generations can also use.

Plantation Timber and Sustainable Forestry

One way the timber industry addresses sustainability is through plantation forests. Plantation timber comes from trees that are specifically planted, grown, and harvested like a crop. In Australia, for example, many construction timbers (such as certain pines) are grown in plantations. These plantations take pressure off natural native forests because we can get the wood we need without heavily logging wild habitats. Sustainable forestry practices involve long-term planning: for every tree cut down, many new ones are planted in its place. Forestry companies and governments also enforce regulations – like cutting only mature trees and protecting areas with high conservation value – to balance timber production with ecosystem health. You might have seen logos like FSC® or PEFC on wood products; these are certifications indicating the wood was sourced from forests that meet strict environmental and ethical standards. Choosing certified sustainable timber means the wood has been tracked from a responsibly managed forest, so you know your material wasn’t sourced by harming the environment or violating laws.

Recycling and Reusing Timber

Another big part of timber sustainability is recycling and reusing wood. Timber is a material that often can have a second life. Instead of throwing away offcuts or old wood furniture, we can repurpose that wood for new projects. For instance, wood from a broken piece of furniture or old building beams can be cleaned up and used again in a new design (you might have heard of people using reclaimed barn wood for flooring or furniture – that’s recycling timber). By reusing wood, we reduce the demand to cut down new trees and also keep usable material out of landfills. Even scraps and sawdust from workshops can be recycled – they can be made into things like particle board or used as biomass fuel. In our own project, think about the timber pieces you’ve cut: how can we make the most of them? One example is the secret drawer you’re creating. The section of wood you remove from the clock body to make space for the drawer doesn’t go to waste – it becomes part of the drawer itself. By incorporating a small drawer (made from offcuts of our main project timber), we’re practicing efficient use of materials and reducing waste. This kind of thoughtful design – where even the “scrap” piece is turned into a functional part – is an excellent example of sustainability in woodworking.

Additional Resource: Sustainable Timber in Australia

For more on how timber can be used responsibly, cheque out Planet Ark’s Make It Wood initiative. It explains why using responsibly sourced wood is beneficial for the environment (wood is renewable, stores carbon, and uses less energy to produce than many other materials) and why protecting high conservation forests is so important. It’s a great read to understand Australia’s approach to sustainable timber.

Discussion Questions

  1. What does it mean for a timber resource to be “sustainably managed,” and why is this important?
  2. How can a consumer or woodworker know if the timber they are using comes from sustainable sources?
  3. In our clock project, how does adding a small drawer made from leftover wood help reduce waste?
Have you been paying attention? – Week 7 Quiz

  1. Which of the following materials is renewable because it can be regrown or replenished?




  2. In a sustainable forestry practise, what usually happens after a tree is harvested for timber?




  3. Which statement about plantation timber is true?




  4. What does a forestry certification label (like FSC®) tell you about timber?




  5. Which is an example of reusing or recycling timber?




  6. Why is using recycled or reclaimed wood beneficial for the environment?




  7. Which practise demonstrates efficient use of materials in a wood project?




  8. A benefit of timber compared to many other building materials is that timber...




  9. Why do environmental groups like Planet Ark support the use of responsibly sourced wood?




  10. Which of the following describes a sustainable practise in timber technology?




Conclusion

This week, you learned that being a skilled woodworker isn’t just about cutting and joining wood – it’s also about understanding where your materials come from and how to use them responsibly. Timber can be an eco-friendly resource when managed well, and even our project design can reduce waste (as seen with our secret drawer). Keep these sustainability principles in mind moving forward. Next week, we’ll switch gears from woodworking theory to some practical math and planning: you’ll compile a cutting list for your clock and calculate the project’s cost using a spreadsheet.

Week 8: Materials Cutting List & Costing in Excel

Introduction

In Week 8, we move from the workshop into a bit of office work – but it’s all part of completing a successful project. Now that most of the clock’s construction is underway, it’s time to document exactly what materials we have used (and still need) and how much they cost. This week focuses on creating a cutting list and using a spreadsheet (like Microsoft Excel or Google Sheets) to calculate material quantities and costs. These skills are important for project planning: they help ensure you have enough of each part, avoid unexpected expenses, and minimise wasted material. Think of it as the planning and budgeting phase for your clock project.

Preparing a Cutting List

A cutting list (or materials list) is a detailed list of every part required for your project, including the dimensions and quantity of each piece. Making a cutting list is one of the first steps professionals take before cutting timber, and we’re doing it now to practise good planning. To create a cutting list for your clock, go through your design and identify all the pieces – for example: front panel, back panel, side panels, top and bottom pieces, the drawer parts, etc. For each part, note its length, width, and thickness (in millimeters) and how many of that part you need. It’s useful to organise this information in a table format. Your cutting list might have columns for:

  • Part Name: e.g., “Front Panel”, “Side Panel”.
  • Dimensions: the size of the part (length × width × thickness in mm).
  • Quantity: how many of that part are needed.
  • Material/Notes: (optional) type of wood or any notes (for instance, if a piece will be cut from another piece).

By listing all this out, you have a clear blueprint for what needs to be cut. A good cutting list helps you plan your cuts efficiently – you can figure out how to lay out parts on your timber boards so that you minimise waste. It also serves as a checklist so you don’t accidentally forget a piece (avoiding that “uh-oh, I need another strip of wood” moment later!). Take your time to make the list accurate. If you have the original design drawings or plans, use them to ensure you get every part’s dimensions correct.

Using Spreadsheets for Costing

Once you have the list of parts, the next step is to calculate how much material you need in total and how much it will cost. This is where a spreadsheet is really handy. Spreadsheets like Excel or Google Sheets allow you to set up a table and use formulas to do the math for you. For our project, you can create columns such as Quantity, Unit Price, and Total Cost for each part. Here’s how it typically works:

  • First, find out the unit price of your material. For example, if you’re using pine, maybe it costs a certain amount per meter or per length for a given cross-section. Likewise, include unit prices for any hardware (like the clock mechanism or screws) or finishing materials if needed.
  • In the spreadsheet, enter the quantity of each part and the unit price. Then use a formula to calculate Total Cost for that line (usually Quantity × Unit Price). For instance, if you need 2 pieces of wood and each costs $3, the total for that part is =2*3 (which the spreadsheet will calculate as $6).
  • After doing this for all parts (and hardware), use a SUM formula to add up all the individual costs. This gives you the overall cost of materials for your clock project.

The great thing about a spreadsheet is that if you change a number (say you decide to make the clock bigger and now need longer pieces), it will recalculate the costs automatically. It helps prevent arithmetic mistakes – no one wants to add up 15 items by hand repeatedly. You’ll also get practise with basic spreadsheet skills: entering data, using formulas (like =SUM or simple multiplication), and formatting cells. These are useful skills not just in tech class but in many real-world scenarios.

Efficient Planning and Budgeting

Making a cutting list and budget isn’t just busywork – it’s a chance to think critically about your project. By seeing all your parts listed, you might spot ways to use materials more efficiently. For example, you could notice that two small parts could be cut from one larger offcut piece. This kind of planning can save material and money. Also, when you calculate the total cost, you might be surprised at how costs add up (timber + clock mechanism + glue + finish, etc.). If the project were over a budget, a designer could decide to change something – perhaps use a different wood or simplify the design to require less material. In our case, it’s good to know how much your clock would cost to build, as it mirrors what happens in industry: before building something, companies always estimate material costs and adjust the plan if needed to stay on budget.

Additional Resource: Cutting List Template

To help you get started, a sample spreadsheet template for the cutting list and costing exercise is provided via Google Classroom (Week 8 resources). Open the template and fill in your own project’s details – part names, dimensions, quantities, and prices – just like we discussed. The template already has the necessary formulas set up, so it will automatically total your costs. Using the template will let you practise without worrying about setting up the spreadsheet from scratch.

Discussion Questions

  1. Why is it useful to create a cutting list before you start cutting materials for a project?
  2. What information do you need to calculate the total cost of a timber part in a project?
  3. How can using a spreadsheet make it easier to adjust your project plans (for example, if you change a part’s size or quantity)?
Have you been paying attention? – Week 8 Quiz

  1. What is the main purpose of a cutting list in a project?




  2. Which of the following would NOT typically be included on a cutting list?




  3. Why is it important to double-cheque your cutting list against the actual project or design?




  4. In a project spreadsheet, what does the “Unit Price” refer to?




  5. You need 4 wooden dowels for your project, and each dowel costs $2.50. Using a spreadsheet, what formula would you use to calculate the total cost for the dowels?




  6. Which Excel/Sheets function would you use to add up the total cost of all items in your list automatically?




  7. If a piece of wood is sold at $10 per meter, and your cutting list says you need 2.5 metres of it, approximately how much should you budget for that wood (not including any extra for waste)?




  8. What is one advantage of planning a project’s material costs before you start building?




  9. If you discover that the total cost of your project is higher than expected, what could you do during the planning stage?




  10. How can planning your cuts and materials help with sustainability (besides saving money)?




Conclusion

By the end of this week, you’ve switched hats from being a craftsman on the tools to being a planner and accountant for your project. You created a cutting list that brings clarity to what you’re building, and you used a spreadsheet to crunch the numbers, ensuring your clock’s materials are accounted for and within a reasonable cost. These planning skills are just as important as the hands-on skills – they ensure that a project is feasible and efficient before you make sawdust. Moving forward, you’ll bring everything together: with a clear plan in hand and most construction done, we’ll focus on final assembly and reflection. Great work on developing a professional approach to project planning!

Week 9: Drawer Assembly & Timber Properties Review

Introduction

Week 9 is all about bringing together your project’s moving part – the drawer – and strengthening your understanding of timber properties. In this week, you’ll assemble and fine-tune the clock’s drawer so it fits smoothly into the carcass. Alongside the hands-on work, we’re reviewing key characteristics of wood such as durability (how well a timber resists rot and wear) and workability (how easy it is to cut, shape, and join). We will also contrast different timber types you’ve encountered, assess the quality of your almost-complete project, and brainstorm improvements. By revisiting these concepts now, you’ll be better prepared to evaluate your finished clock and justify your material choices.

Timber Durability & Workability

Not all woods behave the same. Some timbers are extremely durable – they naturally resist decay, insect attack, and the passage of time. For example, cedar and jarrah are known for lasting outdoors without rotting, whereas a wood like radiata pine (commonly used in class projects) isn’t as durable outside because it can absorb moisture and invite rot. Durability matters for a project’s longevity: a clock made from a durable hardwood might become a long-lasting heirloom, but durability often comes with increased hardness.

That’s where workability comes in. Workability describes how easy a timber is to saw, plane, drill or sand. Softer woods like pine are generally easier to work – your tools cut through them like butter. Hardwoods like spotted gum or oak, on the other hand, are tougher on tools and require more effort to shape, but reward you with strength and rich grain. In our clock project, we chose wood that balances these factors: a timber that is user-friendly for Year 9 students to work with, yet sturdy enough for a quality product. Understanding a wood’s workability helps you plan your cuts and joins; understanding its durability tells you how it might hold up over time.

Contrasting Timber Types

You’ve learned about hardwoods versus softwoods in earlier weeks. Now we apply that knowledge by examining the pieces of your clock. The term hardwood doesn’t always mean “hard” (for instance, balsa is a hardwood that’s very soft) and softwood doesn’t always mean “soft” (douglas fir is a softwood that’s quite hard). The classification is about tree types (deciduous vs coniferous), but in practise, hardwoods like jarrah or oak tend to be denser and have attractive grain patterns, while softwoods like pine or cedar tend to be lighter and easier to cut. We also discussed using contrasting timbers in design – for example, an accent strip of a darker hardwood against a lighter pine can make your clock visually striking. As you look at your project, notice the grain and colour of the wood. Are there knots in the pine boards? Knots add character but can be harder to cut through and may weaken that spot. This review of timber types helps you justify why the materials in your folio were chosen, and imagine how using a different wood might have changed the building process or final look.

Timber boards showing knots vs clear grain Different timber boards can vary in grain and knot frequency. Softer pines often have many knots (as seen above), affecting workability, whereas a clear-grained hardwood board may saw more cleanly.

Quality Assessment & Improvements

With the main assembly nearly complete, it’s time to critically assess your workmanship. Does your drawer slide in and out smoothly without binding? Are the drawer’s front face and surrounding edges flush, giving a neat appearance? Quality assessment involves checking both function and aesthetics: the drawer should function properly (not too tight or too loose) and look good (no obvious gaps or rough edges). We examine joints for tight fits and ensure there’s no excess glue or misaligned parts. If you find issues, this is the perfect moment to think of improvements. For example, if the drawer was initially too snug, you might gently plane the sides of the drawer or sand the opening until the fit is just right. If there’s a small gap, consider how you could have measured or cut more accurately – “measure twice, cut once” always applies. Thinking about improvements isn’t about criticising your work; it’s about learning. Maybe you realise a different joint (like using a small rebate for the drawer corners instead of just butt joints) could add strength, or that adding a wax or soap finish could help the drawer glide better. By evaluating quality now, you’ll carry these lessons into future projects and understand how to approach the final finishing steps next.

Discussion Questions

  1. What does it mean for a timber to be “durable,” and why might that matter for a project that will be kept for many years?
  2. Which would be easier to shape by hand – a piece of radiata pine or a piece of oak – and what trade-offs come with that choice?
  3. As you fitted your drawer, what signs told you the fit was either too tight or too loose, and how did you address it?
  4. Name one aspect of your clock that you are happy with (quality-wise), and one aspect you think you could improve if you built it again. What would you do differently next time?
Have you been paying attention? – Week 9 Quiz

  1. Which term refers to how easily a timber can be cut and shaped with hand tools?




  2. A highly durable wood is one that…




  3. Which of the following is a softwood commonly used in school projects?




  4. The board above has a large knot visible. How might a knot in the wood affect your project?




  5. If your drawer is fitting too tightly in the carcass (it’s hard to push in and pull out), what is a good solution?




  6. Which of these wood characteristics is MOST related to a timber’s workability?




  7. “Measure twice, cut once” is a saying that helps improve…




  8. After assembling the drawer, you notice a slight gap at one corner where two pieces meet. What is the BEST way to improve that in future projects?




  9. True or False: Hardwoods always last longer than softwoods and are always harder to work with.


  10. Which factor is NOT typically part of assessing the quality of your clock project?




Conclusion

In Week 9, you successfully fitted the clock’s drawer and took a closer look at what makes wood “good” for a project. By combining practical skills (like fine-tuning a drawer with a plane) and theory (reviewing timber durability and workability), you gained insight into choosing the right material and achieving a quality outcome. You should now be able to explain why the timber you used was appropriate and spot areas to improve in your work. These reflection skills are as important as the build itself – they turn a simple project into a learning experience about materials and craftsmanship. With the drawer in place and knowledge in mind, you’re ready to move on to final touches, keeping safety and quality at the forefront.

Week 10: Workshop Maintenance & WHS

Introduction

Week 10 shifts focus from building to maintaining – both the workshop and our safety standards. After many weeks of cutting and assembling, it’s time to step back and make sure our workspace and tools are in good shape. A well-maintained workshop is a safe workshop. In this week’s sessions, we will cover essential WHS (Work Health and Safety) practices related to housekeeping: safe handling of materials (so you don’t strain your back or drop heavy wood on your feet), eliminating trip hazards (because off-cuts and clutter on the floor can cause accidents), and working together to clean and organise. We’ll also look at basic tool maintenance – simple tasks like wiping down, sharpening, or storing tools properly to keep them working well and safely. By week’s end, the workshop will be tidier, and you’ll understand why upkeep and safety go hand-in-hand.

Safe Handling & Housekeeping

Our first topic is manual handling – essentially, how to lift and carry things safely. We demonstrated the proper way to pick up a stack of timber: keep your back straight, bend your knees, and lift with your legs (not your back) to avoid injury. We also practiced carrying long materials with a partner, communicating clearly (“Turning left!” or “Watch the door!”) so everyone moves safely together. Keeping aisles clear is a simple but crucial habit: a stray clamp on the ground or an off-cut can easily become a trip hazard. In the theory discussion, we revisited the importance of “good housekeeping” in the workshop. This means:

  • Putting away tools after you use them, in the right place.
  • Cleaning up sawdust and wood scraps (using a broom and dustpan, not your hands) to prevent slips and fires.
  • Coiling up power cords and storing equipment so that walkways are clear.

These might sound like common-sense steps, but it’s amazing how quickly a busy class can turn a clean workshop into a messy one. By doing a mid-project cleanup, we not only make the space safer – we also take pride in our environment and show respect for the tools and facilities.

Tool Maintenance and Care

Next, we turned to tool maintenance. Even the best tool can become unsafe if neglected. For example, a chisel that’s dull forces you to push harder, which can lead to slips – a sharp chisel is actually safer and yields cleaner cuts. We discussed how to tell when a tool needs care: does a saw feel gummed up or not cut straight (time to clean the blade), do screws on the plane feel loose (grab a screwdriver and tighten them), are the battery-powered drills charged and stored correctly? As a class, we performed a simple maintenance task: each student picked a tool or area to inspect and fix up. Some oiled the vice screws to keep them moving freely, others checked the condition of sanding blocks and replaced the sandpaper. We even looked at tool alignment – for instance, ensuring the drill press table is clean and square. Through this, you learned that regular maintenance isn’t complicated: it’s about regularly checking, cleaning, and fixing minor issues before they become big problems. It extends the life of equipment and prevents accidents (like a hammer head flying off a loose handle!). Plus, a well-maintained set of tools makes your work more enjoyable and precise.

Tidy tool board on wall Organising and caring for tools: an example of a tidy tool board. Every tool has its place, making it easy to see if something is missing and ensuring nothing lies underfoot to cause trips.

WHS Responsibilities & Signage

Maintaining a workshop is also about understanding everyone’s WHS responsibilities. We emphasised that safety is a shared duty: it’s not just the teacher or the captains who should think about safety – everyone in the workshop contributes. This means if you see a spill, you clean it (or report it); if you notice a frayed power cord, you unplug it and inform the teacher; if a classmate is carrying something heavy, you offer help or at least ensure their path is clear. We also took a quick tour of common safety signage around the workshop. You probably see these signs every day without a second thought – green signs for first aid kits and exits, yellow triangle signs warning of specific hazards (like a sign near the lathe reading “Wear Eye Protection”), and red signs for fire equipment or emergency stops. Understanding these symbols is part of being a safe worker. By paying attention to signage and remembering the simple rules behind each symbol (e.g., a figure wearing goggles means you must have eye protection in that area), you stay proactively safe. In summary, knowing the rules is one thing, but actively keeping the workshop in order and following the posted signs makes safety a natural part of how we work.

Discussion Questions

  1. Why is it important to lift with your legs (and not your back) when moving heavy timber or equipment?
  2. What are two benefits of keeping the workshop clean and organised during a project, not just at the end?
  3. Can you name a maintenance task you did (or observed) this week? How does that task improve safety or tool performance?
  4. Think of a safety sign you’ve seen in the workshop (for example, a sign requiring eye protection). What behaviour does it encourage or mandate, and why is that important?
  5. Whose responsibility is it to maintain a safe workshop? Explain your answer with an example.
Have you been paying attention? – Week 10 Quiz

  1. Which statement about manual handling is CORRECT?




  2. What is a good practise to prevent trip hazards in a workshop?




  3. WHS stands for:




  4. During our maintenance session, why did we emphasise sharpening or replacing dull tools?




  5. Which of the following is an example of good workshop housekeeping?




  6. If you spot a spill of wood finish (a slippery liquid) on the workshop floor, what should you do FIRST?




  7. Who is responsible for safety and cleanliness in the workshop?




  8. One of the safety signs in our workshop is a green first aid cross. What does a green sign typically indicate?




  9. After using a power drill, what should you do as part of good tool maintenance?




  10. Which of these statements best describes why we do workshop maintenance and cleaning?




Conclusion

By the end of Week 10, our workshop was cleaner, our tools were in better shape, and everyone had a clearer understanding of daily safety habits. You saw firsthand that safety isn’t just about dramatic precautions during cutting or drilling – it’s woven into the everyday tasks of lifting correctly, tidying up, and keeping equipment in top condition. These practices might seem mundane, but they prevent injuries and ensure the workshop runs smoothly for everyone. The skills you practiced – from coiling a cable properly to checking a blade’s sharpness – are ones you’ll carry into any future workshop or workplace. With a safe environment restored and knowledge of WHS principles reinforced, we can move forward to the final stages of our clock project with confidence and care.

Week 11: Safe Work Method Statements (SWMS)

Introduction

Welcome to Week 11 of the Clock project. This week we stepped back from hands-on building to focus on planning for safety. We learned about the Safe Work Method Statement (SWMS), a structured document used to identify hazards and decide how to work safely. On big construction sites, SWMS are mandatory for dangerous tasks, but the idea applies to our classroom too: think before you act. In class, you began writing a SWMS for the remaining steps of your clock project – listing each task, the dangers (hazards) at that step, and how to reduce the risks. We also talked about the “hierarchy of control” – a fancy term for ranking safety measures from best to last resort. By the end of the week, you were thinking like a safety planner, breaking down your project into safe, organised steps rather than just charging ahead.

What Exactly Is a SWMS?

A Safe Work Method Statement is basically a safety game-plan on paper. It asks three main questions: What are the hazards? (what could go wrong or cause harm?), What are the risks? (how serious could it be and how likely is it?), and How will we control those risks? (what steps will we take to prevent an accident?). We looked at an example SWMS for a simple task (using a power drill). The example listed the task’s steps (e.g. “Drill a hole in timber”), the hazards (“drill bit could snap, wood chips flying, loud noise”), the risks (“injury from flying pieces, eye damage, hearing damage”), and controls (“use a sharp bit and proper speed, wear safety glasses and ear muffs, clamp the timber securely”). Writing this out might feel tedious, but it forces you to slow down and plan out safety. When you applied this to your clock project, you realised even a small project has important safety steps – like double-checking the drill press setup before drilling, or wearing a dust mask when sanding.

The Hierarchy of Hazard Controls

One big concept we covered is the hierarchy of controls – think of it as a safety ladder from most effective to least effective controls. At the very top is Elimination – remove the hazard entirely if you can (this is the best option: no hazard, no harm). Next is Substitution – replace the hazard with something safer (for example, using a less toxic finish instead of a very poisonous one). After that comes Engineering controls – physically isolate or reduce the hazard (like using an exhaust fan or guard on a machine to keep dust or blades away from people). Then Administrative controls – these are rules and procedures (for instance, only allowing trained people to use certain equipment, or scheduling noisy work when fewer people are around). Last on the list – the least effective by itself – is PPE (Personal Protective Equipment, like gloves, goggles, or masks). PPE is considered the last line of defence because it doesn’t remove the hazard; it just helps protect you if something goes wrong. We discussed examples: for a dusty task like sanding, an engineering control would be turning on the dust extraction vacuum, an administrative control would be limiting sanding time or doing it when others aren’t nearby, and PPE would be wearing your dust mask and goggles. The takeaway was that you should try to eliminate or reduce a hazard with higher-level controls first, and not rely only on PPE.

Hierarchy of Hazard Controls pyramid

Sequencing Work for Safety

Another thing your SWMS made you consider was the sequence of work. The order in which you do tasks can affect safety. We talked about doing higher-risk tasks (like cutting or machining wood) earlier on, when you’re fresh and the pieces are still easy to handle, and saving lower-risk finishing tasks (like detailed sanding or staining) for later. For example, it’s safer to cut all your pieces while they are still large and easy to clamp, rather than after assembly when you’d be cutting something small and potentially unstable. By planning out the steps of your project in order, you avoided scenarios like “Oops, I needed to drill a hole earlier when it was easier to secure the piece.” Through this sequencing exercise, you noticed how each step set up the next one to be safer and easier. This planning is basically applying project management thinking to safety – something professional woodworkers do all the time.

Completing the Clock Project SWMS

During the practical part of the week, you either worked in teams or individually to write a SWMS specifically for your clock project. You identified hazards for each remaining step: for example, cutting the remaining trim (hazard: sharp saw, flying splinters), assembling the clock body (hazard: hammering nails could hit fingers, glue fumes), or sanding and finishing (hazard: wood dust and vapors). For each hazard, you wrote down control measures. Often, you realised you were already doing many of these controls by habit – wearing safety glasses when cutting, using clamps or a vice to hold wood, asking for help when moving something heavy. We reviewed a couple of students’ SWMS sheets as a class and discussed whether the proposed controls were the best ones, or if we could think of even safer alternatives. By the end of the exercise, you had a written safety roadmap for finishing your project. The process might have felt formal, but it summed up a lot of what we’ve been practicing all term: working safely is not just about reacting if something goes wrong, it’s about planning ahead so things don’t go wrong in the first place.

Discussion Questions

  1. In your own words, what is the purpose of a Safe Work Method Statement (SWMS), and when might you need one outside of school?
  2. Give an example of a hazard you identified in your clock project and describe one control you put in place to manage it.
  3. Why do you think elimination and substitution are ranked higher than PPE in the hierarchy of controls?
  4. How did planning the order of tasks (the sequence) help make the project work safer or easier?
  5. Now that you’ve completed a SWMS, do you feel differently about approaching new projects or tasks? Why or why not?
Have you been paying attention? – Week 11 Quiz

  1. A Safe Work Method Statement (SWMS) is best described as:




  2. According to the hierarchy of controls, which control is MOST effective?




  3. “Substitution” as a hazard control means:




  4. Which of the following is an example of an engineering control?




  5. True or False: Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) is the last resort in hazard control, used when other controls either aren’t available or need extra backup.


  6. Why do we write down hazards and controls in a SWMS instead of just keeping them in our head?




  7. If a hazard during finishing is “strong fumes from oil or varnish,” which control is a PPE control for that hazard?




  8. Which of these questions would you expect to answer in a SWMS document?




  9. True or False: Thinking through a SWMS for our clock project is a waste of time because the project is small and low-risk.


  10. Which statement about sequencing your work is CORRECT?




Conclusion

By completing a SWMS for your clock, you learned to see your project through the eyes of safety. This week’s theory showed that building something isn’t just about the end product – it’s also about how you get there without anyone getting hurt. You discovered the hierarchy of controls, giving you a framework to tackle hazards from the best angle. Writing down a step-by-step safety plan might have felt new, but it encapsulated many lessons we’ve been practicing all along, like thinking ahead and taking precautions. Going forward, whether you’re in a workshop, science lab, or anywhere doing a task, you can use the same mindset: identify the risks, control them smartly (don’t just rely on gear), and work in a logical order. As we move on to the finishing stages of the clock, keep this safety-first approach in mind. You’re not just crafting a clock – you’re developing the habits of a thoughtful, safety-conscious maker.

Week 12: Sanding & Surface Prep for Finishing

Introduction

In Week 12, the focus shifted from construction to preparing your clock for a great finish. Now that the clock is fully assembled, it’s time to make its surfaces smooth and ready for oiling or varnishing. This week was all about sanding and surface preparation. You might think sanding is boring, but it’s a crucial step that can make the difference between a rough-looking project and a professional-looking one. By the end of the week, you had removed pencil marks and rough patches, eased any sharp edges, and learned why putting in the effort now will pay off when we apply the finish. In short, we turned our attention to all those little details that ensure the clock not only looks good but will also take a finish evenly.

Why Sanding Matters

We began by discussing why we sand at all. Sanding is about creating a smooth, even surface so that when we put a finish on the wood, it adheres well and looks great. Any roughness, tear-out, or pencil mark left on the wood will stand out even more after finishing. By sanding properly, we’re improving both the appearance and the longevity of the clock. A smooth surface takes oil or varnish evenly, which means the colour and sheen will be consistent. Skipping or rushing this step could lead to blotchy finish or rough texture. We also noted that sanding slightly rounds over (or eases) sharp edges. This is intentional: sharp corners don’t hold finishes well and are more prone to chipping. By easing edges, we make the clock nicer to touch and reduce the chance of the finish flaking off edges.

Sanding Techniques and Grits

Next, we dove into proper sanding techniques. We talked about sanding “with the grain” – moving your sandpaper in the same direction as the wood grain – to avoid scratching the wood. Sanding against the grain or in circles can leave noticeable scratch marks that only show up after finishing. In class, you started with a medium grit (like 120) sandpaper and worked your way to finer grits (like 180 and then 240). Using multiple grits in sequence is important: a coarse grit takes off material quickly but leaves scratches, and the next finer grit removes those scratches, and so on. If you jumped straight to a super fine grit, you’d waste time and still have rough patches from earlier cuts or dents. We also learned not to over-sand beyond what’s needed – for most finishes, sanding up to around 180 or 240 grit is enough. Sanding much further (like to 400+) can close up the wood’s pores so much that oil might not soak in as well. Everyone practiced using a sanding block to keep the sandpaper flat against the wood. This helps avoid sanding dips into your clock’s flat surfaces. For parts with curves or tight spots, some of you used a piece of sandpaper wrapped around a dowel or your finger to get into grooves. The room was a dusty mess by the end of the session, but your clock surfaces were feeling noticeably smoother!

Cleaning Up for a Perfect Finish

After sanding, we made sure to clean the wood thoroughly. This step is easy to overlook but very important. All the fine dust sitting on your clock can interfere with the finish – if you don’t remove it, you might end up with a gritty or cloudy coat of oil. As a class, we used soft brushes and rags to wipe every surface. Some of you used a slightly damp (not wet) cloth to pick up the remaining dust. We also blew dust out of crevices and checked inside the secret drawer compartment for stray sawdust. The goal was to have a dust-free clock, so that when we start oiling in Week 13, nothing unwanted gets trapped in the finish. We talked about how professionals often use tack cloths (sticky cloths) or air compressors to ensure wood is perfectly clean before finishing. We also reminded ourselves to clean the sanding equipment and our work area – piles of fine dust can be a hazard (slippery floors, or even a fire risk if near open flames or sparks). By the end of this cleanup, our clocks were smooth, clean, and ready for the first coat of oil.

Ready for Finishing

This week’s activities really emphasised the mantra “the better the prep, the better the result.” It might have been tempting to rush through sanding to get to the exciting part of applying finish, but now you see why patience here is essential. A few of you discovered small dents or tool marks in your clock that you hadn’t noticed before – and you were able to sand them out now, rather than be disappointed by them later. We also discussed how different grit levels remove material: starting with a coarse grit (if your wood had saw marks or rough spots from cutting) and finishing with fine grit for smoothness. If you ever work on a larger project (like a piece of furniture), the same rules apply: prepare the surface diligently. One student asked, “How smooth is smooth enough?” – generally, when it feels like glass under your fingertips and you can’t see scratches, you’re good to go. By the close of Week 12, you turned your attention to the upcoming finishing step, knowing that you’ve set yourself up for success by giving your clock the best surface possible.

Discussion Questions

  1. Why is it important to sand wood in the direction of the grain rather than against it?
  2. We used several sandpaper grits (for example, 120 then 180 then 240). What is the reason for not just using a single “extra-fine” grit from the start?
  3. What could happen if you forget to wipe off all the dust before applying an oil finish?
  4. Why did we slightly round or ease the sharp edges of the clock during sanding?
  5. If you notice a small dent or pencil mark on your clock while sanding, why is it better to fix it now rather than hope the finish will cover it up?
Have you been paying attention? – Week 12 Quiz

  1. Sanding the wood before finishing is important mainly because:




  2. What is the correct order of sandpaper grits from COARSE to FINE among these options?




  3. Which of these is a good practise when sanding your clock project?




  4. After finishing sanding, why did we wipe down the clock with a brush or cloth?




  5. Which grit sandpaper is finest?




  6. True or False: If you sand wood to a very high grit (say 600 or 800), it can sometimes make it harder for oil finishes to penetrate the wood.


  7. Which statement about sanding is INCORRECT?




  8. We eased (rounded slightly) the edges of our clock during sanding mainly to:




  9. Which tool or method did we NOT use for sanding our clocks?




  10. After sanding and cleaning, how should the wood feel to the touch?




Conclusion

By the end of Week 12, you transformed your clock from “freshly built” to “finish-ready.” You experienced first-hand why woodworkers say, “the finish is only as good as the prep work.” All the patience you put into sanding will make the next steps much more rewarding. The wood now feels silky to touch, edges are comfortable to hold, and the clock is clean of dust. You’ve set the stage for a beautiful finish. This week might not have involved dramatic changes to how the clock looks (sanding doesn’t always show until the finish goes on), but it was a great lesson in attention to detail. Just as a painter preps a canvas or a mechanic preps an engine, a good woodworker always prepares the timber. With your project prepped and ready, you can look forward to applying the oil finish next week and seeing the wood grain come alive, confident that it will turn out great thanks to your careful work now.

*(Curious about different sandpapers and their uses? Check out this guide on sandpaper grits for more insight.)*

Week 13: Oil Finish Application & Self-Evaluation

Introduction

Week 13 marked an exciting milestone: putting the finish on the clock project and taking time to reflect on the whole process. After all the cutting, assembling, and sanding, this week you finally applied a clear oil finish to your clock to bring out the beauty of the wood. While waiting for the oil to dry, you also worked on a self-evaluation of your project, thinking about what went well, what was challenging, and how you’ve grown as a budding woodworker. In essence, this week was about giving your clock its final protective sheen and looking back on the journey you took to make it.

Timber Finishes: Oils and More

In class we started by discussing different timber finishes and why we finish wood at all. Finishing serves two main purposes: protection (guarding the wood against moisture, dirt, and wear) and appearance (enhancing the colour and grain, and giving a desired sheen from matte to glossy). We listed common finishes: oils (like Danish oil or linseed oil), clear varnishes and polyurethanes, shellac, waxes, and paints. Each has its uses – for example, we noted that oil finishes tend to soak into the wood and give a natural look, while varnishes create a hard film on top of the wood that’s very protective but a bit less “natural” looking. We chose Danish oil for the clock project because it’s a beginner-friendly finish that really brings out the grain of pine, is relatively safe to work with, and doesn’t require fancy equipment. (Plus, Danish oil is basically a mix of oil and varnish that gives a nice balance of penetration and protection.) We compared it to something like shellac or lacquer which dry faster but often are sprayed on and need more skill. By learning about various finishes, you got a sense that there’s a whole world of choices depending on what a project needs – outdoor furniture, for instance, might need a marine varnish, whereas a cutting board might just get a food-safe oil. We also touched on a safety note: some finishes (like oil-based ones) have fumes or can be flammable, so always cheque the instructions and work in a ventilated space.

Applying the Oil Finish

The highlight of the week was actually applying the oil finish to your clock. We prepared by making sure each clock was dust-free (good thing we did that thorough sanding cleanup last week!). You used clean, lint-free cloths (rags) to apply the Danish oil. The method was straightforward: pour a small amount of oil onto the rag or directly onto the wood, then wipe it onto the wood following the grain. You quickly saw the wood transform – the pine’s grain and colour became richer and slightly darker, and the unique patterns in each piece of wood “popped” out. We reminded everyone to apply a thin, even coat. With oil finishes, more is not better – the wood can only absorb so much. After letting the oil sit on the surface for about 5-10 minutes, you went back and wiped off any excess. This is important because any oil that just sits on the surface without soaking in can become sticky or dry unevenly. We propped up the clocks on stands (so they wouldn’t stick to the newspaper beneath) and allowed them to start drying. Meanwhile, we talked about how many coats might be needed – typically 2 or 3 coats of oil give a good result, with a day of drying in between. Since our class periods are shorter, we planned to apply the second coat in the next session or whenever the first coat was fully dry.

We also emphasised safe handling of oily rags. An important safety tip you learned is that oil-soaked rags can spontaneously catch fire if not handled properly! This isn’t a myth – as the oil cures, it generates heat. If rags are left crumpled up, that heat can build up and ignite the cloth. So, we made sure to lay out used oily rags flat to dry, or better yet, submerge them in water in a metal container for disposal. It might sound extreme, but it’s a real hazard in woodshops. You all took this seriously (nobody wants their project to end in flames!), and we collected the rags in a safe manner.

Self-Evaluation: Looking Back on the Project

While the oil was doing its magic on the wood, you switched gears to begin your self-evaluation. This is a chance to be both the creator and the critic of your work. Each of you received a self-evaluation worksheet (or prompts in your workbook) with questions about the project. You reflected on questions like: “How well does your finished clock match the design you originally drew?” and “What was the biggest challenge you faced, and how did you overcome it?” You also considered what you would do differently if you could do the project again – this could be about time management, a technique you would improve, or even a design element you might change. At first, some found it odd to “grade” themselves, but as we discussed, self-evaluation is not about penalising yourself – it’s about recognising what you learned and identifying ways to improve. We shared a few thoughts as a class: one student noted they wished they had been more patient with sanding, another was proud of learning to use the drill press confidently, and someone else mentioned they would choose a different stain colour if they did it again. By writing these thoughts down, you’re essentially having a conversation with your future self – the next time you tackle a project, you can remember these insights.

Oiling Progress and Next Steps

Toward the end of the week, we checked on the clocks. Some had already absorbed most of the oil and were dry to the touch; those were given a very light sanding with extra-fine grit or steel wool (just to knock down any tiny wood fibers that rose up) and then a second coat of oil was applied. The room had that distinct smell of oil finish – not unpleasant, but a sign that real finishing work was happening! The clocks now have a warmer tone and a subtle sheen. Many of you were quite excited to see how “professional” the projects started to look once the finish went on. We left the clocks over the weekend to cure. You’ll notice the oil finish isn’t glossy; it’s more of a soft glow that really suits a timber project like this. We discussed that if we wanted a glossy, highly protective finish, we could add a coat of polyurethane varnish on top or use a different finishing product, but the trade-off would be a more artificial look. For our purposes, the Danish oil’s natural finish was just right.

Discussion Questions

  1. What does applying an oil finish do for the wood, both in terms of protection and appearance?
  2. Name one other type of wood finish (besides oil) and mention where or why it might be used.
  3. What safety precautions should you take when working with oil finishes and oil-soaked rags?
  4. In your self-evaluation, what is one thing you realised you did well during the project?
  5. What is one thing you would do differently next time, based on your reflection about this project?
Have you been paying attention? – Week 13 Quiz

  1. Which of the following is not a reason to apply a finish to wood?




  2. What type of finish did we apply to the clock project, and why?




  3. When applying Danish oil, why do we wipe off the excess oil after a few minutes?




  4. Which statement about oily rags is TRUE?




  5. When reflecting on your project in the self-evaluation, you should:




  6. How many coats of oil did we aim to apply to the clock (time permitting)?




  7. Which of these statements about finishes is TRUE?




  8. During your self-evaluation, you’re asked what you would do differently next time. What is a good example of an answer?




  9. True or False: Danish oil penetrates the wood and typically gives a more natural look than a layer of polyurethane varnish would.


  10. After one coat of oil, the wood grain looked richer. What will additional coats of oil do?




Conclusion

Week 13 was both rewarding and reflective. Seeing the oil bring your clock to life was a satisfying moment – the pale, sanded timber gained a richer colour and a gentle sheen, highlighting the work you’ve put into it. You also learned that finishing is a careful process: thin coats, patience, and safety precautions with materials like oily rags. Equally important, taking time for self-evaluation helped you recognise how far you’ve come since the start of the project (and even since the breadboard in the previous unit). By honestly assessing your work, you set the stage for continuous improvement in future projects. The skills you practiced – from applying a finish to thinking critically about your own process – are skills you’ll carry forward. With the clock now oiled and looking great, and your thoughts on the project captured in your folio, you’re nearly at the finish line. All that remains is a final test of knowledge and the proud moment of handing in your work, which we’ll tackle in the coming week.

*(For more information on different types of timber finishes and how they’re used, you can read this Australian timber finishes guide which covers oils, varnishes, and other finishing methods.)*

Week 14: Theory Test & Unit Feedback

Introduction

In Week 14, we paused practical work entirely to focus on assessment and feedback. This week featured a short theory test covering all the key knowledge you’ve gained throughout the term (both the earlier Breadboard project and the Clock project theory). After the test, we spent time reviewing tricky questions and then moved into giving and receiving feedback about the project. In essence, this week was about checking understanding and reflecting on the unit as a whole. It might sound a bit daunting to have a test, but it was also a chance to celebrate how much you’ve learned. And don’t forget – feedback time is where you get to share your thoughts and hear about your performance beyond just a grade.

Reviewing What We’ve Learned

When test day arrived, you were presented with a mix of multiple-choice and short-answer questions that spanned everything from workshop safety rules to timber properties to project planning. The test was designed to revisit major points: for example, identifying tools and their uses, knowing why seasoned timber is important, recalling the steps of the design process, understanding joinery terms like “rebate” or “dowel joint,” and safety concepts like the hierarchy of controls. While the test was being taken, the room was quiet with concentration (except for the sound of pencils on paper). It was a closed-book test, but you had your brain packed with a term’s worth of hands-on experience and theory lessons. After time was up, we swapped papers (or used a digital quiz review) and went through the answers together. This review was perhaps the most valuable part – for each question, we discussed why the correct answer was correct. If a lot of people missed a particular question, it sparked a class discussion. For instance, one question about timber seasoning stumped a few students, so we revisited why drying wood is important to prevent warping. The point was not to dwell on mistakes, but to clear up any misunderstandings while it was fresh.

Learning from the Test

We also talked about test-taking and learning. A test isn’t just about a score – it’s a learning tool. If you got something wrong, that’s actually useful: it shows an area you can improve or a concept to review. As a class, we treated the test results not as a final judgment, but as feedback. Many of you did quite well, which was a confidence boost – you really have absorbed a lot this term! For any questions you found challenging, the group discussion helped make those concepts clearer. For example, a question asking to choose the best joint type for a given scenario led to a lively explanation from one student about why a dado joint would be stronger than just butt gluing. In reviewing the WHS questions, you all could easily rattle off safety rules and symbols, showing that the practical emphasis on safety had stuck with you. This review process hopefully also gave you strategies for future tests: read questions carefully, eliminate obviously wrong answers in multiple-choice, and apply what you did in projects to theoretical questions (often your practical experience gives the clue to the right answer).

Project Feedback and Reflection

With the test out of the way, we shifted to the unit feedback session. First, you received feedback on your clock projects themselves. This was essentially an informal pre-marking review: I (the teacher) pointed out things in each clock that were well done – for example, neat joins, a well-fitted drawer, an exceptionally smooth finish – and also gently noted any areas that could be improved – maybe a slight gap in a joint or a small sanding scratch that was missed. This one-on-one or small group discussion was meant to help you see your work from a teacher’s perspective and understand the criteria of quality. It wasn’t about criticism; it was about learning what “quality craftsmanship” means in concrete terms.

Then we opened up the floor for student feedback on the unit. This is where you got to voice your opinions about the project and the coursework. We asked: “What did you enjoy most about the clock project?”, “What was the most valuable thing you learned?”, and “What could be improved for next year’s class?” It was great to hear your insights. Many of you said you loved the practical building time – no surprise there! Some enjoyed the design aspect, others found the theory on wood and tools really interesting once they saw it applied in real life. On the flip side, a couple of you suggested that the pacing could be improved – for example, spending a bit more time earlier on practicing measurements would have helped reduce mistakes. One student suggested adding a small group challenge, like a contest for the most creative clock design, to spice things up. All these comments were noted. As a teacher, I value this feedback hugely because it helps shape future classes to be even better. We also did a quick survey where you rated different parts of the unit (like the breadboard refresher vs. the clock project, the difficulty of the theory work, etc.). The consensus was that while the project had its tough moments, everyone felt they came away with stronger skills and knowledge.

Wrapping Up Loose Ends

By the end of Week 14, we made sure all students had completed their project folios (workbooks) and any remaining worksheets. Those who missed parts of the test or had outstanding folio sections got a chance to catch up. There was a sense of relief and accomplishment in the air – the heavy lifting of the term was done. All that remained was the final hand-in of projects and folios next week. We reminded everyone to double-cheque their folio against the checklist: it should include your design sketches, materials/cutting list, the SWMS, progress journal entries, evaluation, and any other assigned write-ups. We also reminded you to label your project with your name or a project number for submission, to avoid any mix-ups during marking. The class ended with a quick cleanup (exams generate scrap paper and we had some sawdust bunnies lurking under benches from last week’s sanding!). With a clean room and clear minds, you headed into the final week ready to celebrate finishing the project.

Discussion Questions

  1. What was one topic on the test that you felt confident about, and why do you think you knew it so well?
  2. If you got a question wrong on the test, what can that teach you for next time or for future projects?
  3. What part of the clock project are you most proud of, now that you’ve seen everyone’s work and gotten feedback?
  4. Can you think of one suggestion to improve this project unit for future students? (For example, something that could be explained better or a different activity that could be added.)
  5. Why is it important to complete and hand in your folio (workbook) along with the finished project?
Have you been paying attention? – Week 14 Quiz

  1. The purpose of the theory test this week was to:




  2. After the test, we reviewed the answers as a class mainly to:




  3. Which of these would NOT be part of the project folio that you hand in?




  4. During the feedback session, which of the following is an example of constructive feedback the teacher might give on your project?




  5. True or False: After the test and feedback in Week 14, there is nothing left to do for the clock project unit.


  6. What is one benefit of doing a self-evaluation and unit feedback discussion (from a student’s perspective)?




  7. During the student feedback part, which of these would be a helpful comment for improving the unit in the future?




  8. The teacher’s feedback on your clock project is meant to:




  9. True or False: One result of the Week 14 activities is that you should now know if your folio (workbook) is missing anything before the final submission.


  10. At this point in the project (end of Week 14), which statement best describes what you should be doing?




Conclusion

By the end of Week 14, you experienced the more “academic” side of our practical course – being tested on knowledge and reflecting through feedback. Far from being a dull wrap-up, this week showed how much you’ve learned and gave you insight into your own work habits and understanding. The theory test confirmed that safety, tools, and processes that once were new to you are now part of your skill set. Going over the answers helped cement that knowledge and correct any last misconceptions. The feedback session for the project was a chance to celebrate your craftsmanship and acknowledge improvements: looking at your finished clock and hearing “Great job on X, and here’s how to make Y even better next time” is exactly how we grow as craftspeople. Importantly, hearing your voices in the unit feedback discussion ensures that this course keeps evolving – your experiences will help shape how future students tackle the clock project. Now all that remains is the final formal hand-in and knowing that you’ve completed something substantial. The class atmosphere was proud and reflective: you’ve gone from raw materials to a finished clock, and learned a lot of theory and practical lessons along the way. Give yourself a pat on the back – you’re almost at the finish line of this unit!

Week 15: Project Hand-In & Wrap-Up

Introduction

Week 15 was the final week of the Clock project unit – a time to wrap everything up neatly and celebrate what you’ve accomplished. The main event was the hand-in of your completed clock projects and the accompanying work folios for marking. This week had no new theory or practical skills to learn; instead, it was about making sure all the T’s were crossed and I’s dotted. We took a step back to summarise the journey from start to finish, and you got to see everyone’s clocks lined up together – each one a little different, reflecting the personal touches each of you added. It was a satisfying conclusion to see raw planks of timber transformed into functional, beautiful clocks. We also did some final housekeeping like a thorough workshop cleanup and reflecting on how the skills learned might connect to future projects or even careers. In short, Week 15 was all about closure and celebration.

Final Checklist and Hand-In

The first part of the week was making sure every student was ready to submit their project. We went through a final checklist as a class. Did your clock have all its parts (drawer fitted, backing attached, clock mechanism if applicable)? Did you remember to put your name or ID on or inside the clock? Many of you crafted a small name tag or wrote lightly in pencil on an inconspicuous spot – this helps ensure your clock can be identified during marking and returned to the right person. We also checked the folio (workbook) one last time: it should include your initial design sketch, the cutting list and costing exercise, all the weekly theory exercises or questions, your SWMS, and the self-evaluation you completed in Week 13. If anything was missing, this was the last chance to add it. A few students printed an extra photo of their clock to include in the folio, which was a nice touch!

Hand-in day itself was exciting. Each of you brought your finished clock to the front, along with your folio. There’s something very gratifying about placing a finished piece of work on the table – it’s heavier than paper, and you can literally see the effort that went into it. As the teacher, I carefully collected each project and workbook. We had a simple labeling system to keep clocks and folios paired (like matching numbers). Everyone met the deadline, which was fantastic – it shows good project management on your part. We snapped a quick group photo with all the clocks; it was great to visually take in the whole class’s achievements at once.

Reflecting on Skills and Knowledge Gained

With the pressure of due dates behind us, we spent a little time talking about the big-picture takeaways from this project. We revisited the syllabus outcomes we’ve been meeting: things like using tools safely (you all certainly did, with many of you now quite confident with saws and drills), applying design principles (each clock had the same basic plan but slight design variations, showing creative thinking), and using materials wisely (from understanding why pine was used, to how moisture affects wood, to calculating costs and minimising waste). We also mentioned the transferable skills you’ve developed. For instance, measuring and planning are useful in any DIY project. Knowing how to manage a project timeline (you had to do certain steps by certain weeks) is a skill that applies to lots of tasks, not just woodwork. And of course, the safety consciousness you’ve built – that awareness will be valuable whether you’re in a workshop, a science lab, or even just doing chores at home.

Some of you shared what you enjoyed most or what you found the hardest. A common sentiment was that seeing the final product made all the challenges worth it. Remember back in Week 1, the idea of making a clock from scratch might have felt intimidating. Now you can look at your clock and say, “I made this,” which is a huge confidence booster. We also touched on how technology and society connect – for example, we used mostly hand tools and simple power tools for this project, but imagine doing this in a factory: they’d use CNC machines, lasers, etc. Understanding the basics by hand gives you an appreciation for those advanced technologies (and perhaps some of you might be inspired to explore them in future courses).

Cleanup and Celebration

No project is truly complete until the workspace is clean! So we did a final workshop cleanup. We stored leftover timber pieces, cleaned and returned all tools to their proper places, and swept the floors. It was much quicker than our mid-project cleanups, partly because everyone was in a good mood and keen to finish, and partly because we’ve been keeping the place tidy as we went. Once the room was spick-and-span, we took a moment to acknowledge the journey. I congratulated the class on their hard work and improvement – comparing the rough cutting boards (breadboards) you made at the start of the year to these clocks shows a real progression in skill and complexity. Some of you who struggled with accuracy back then have clocks now with tight joints and smooth finishes. That’s real progress!

We ended the week (and the unit) with a little celebration. It could be as simple as a round of applause for each student, or in our case, we had a brief “show and tell” where each of you pointed out one feature of your clock you’re proud of or told a quick story (like “this dent on the back taught me why we use a backing board when drilling!” – got a laugh and a nod from everyone). It was a light-hearted end to a rigorous project. With projects handed in and the unit concluded, you’re now ready to enjoy a break or move on to the next challenge in our curriculum. But you’ll always have this clock – a tangible reminder of your hard work and the skills you’ve gained in Year 9 Industrial Tech Timber.

Discussion Questions

  1. Looking at your finished clock, what part of it are you the most proud of and why?
  2. What was one of the biggest challenges you faced during this project, and how did you overcome it?
  3. How do you think the skills you learned in this project (planning, using tools, finishing, etc.) could be useful in future projects or everyday life?
  4. Why is it important to label your project and organise your folio before handing them in?
  5. Now that the project is complete, is there anything you would tell your “Week 1 self” to do differently or pay special attention to?
Have you been paying attention? – Week 15 Quiz

  1. What did students hand in during Week 15?




  2. Why did we double-cheque that each student’s name or ID was on their clock and folio?




  3. Which of the following is an example of a transferable skill from the clock project?




  4. What final steps did we take in the workshop during Week 15 after handing in the projects?




  5. True or False: One of the goals in the final week was to highlight how the knowledge and skills from this project relate to real-world situations and future projects.


  6. Which comment best shows a student making a connection between this project and something outside of school?




  7. Before handing in, why did we ensure the folio had everything (designs, lists, SWMS, evaluations, etc.)?




  8. True or False: At the end of this project, students have not only a finished product (the clock) but also a set of learned skills and knowledge that can apply to other areas.


  9. What’s one thing you might do in the future with the experience of building this clock?




  10. Finish this sentiment that many students felt: “Looking at the clock I built, I learned that…




Conclusion

Week 15 brought our clock project adventure to a satisfying close. By handing in your completed clock and folio, you not only met the requirements of the course – you also got to experience the full arc of a project from conception to completion. This final week reinforced the importance of organisation (making sure everything was labeled and included), responsibility (meeting deadlines and cleaning up), and reflection (understanding what you’ve learned and how you’ve grown). Looking at all the finished clocks together, it’s clear that each one carries the imprint of its maker – a bit of creativity, a few learning scars (tiny mistakes turned into lessons), and a lot of hard work. You should be proud of your clock and of the skills you’ve developed along the way.

Remember that the end of a project is not the end of learning. The knowledge about timber, tools, and safety you’ve gained will stick with you. The ability to plan a project and see it through is something that will serve you well in many areas, not just in woodworking. And who knows – maybe this won’t be your last woodworking project. Whether or not you pursue more in this field, you’ve proven that you can turn an idea into a real, tangible object. That’s a big deal! As you move on, take a moment to congratulate yourself. From a rough plank to a finished clock, you’ve come a long way. This wrap-up isn’t just about ending a unit; it’s about recognising an achievement. Well done, and thanks for putting your heart into the project. Every time you cheque the time on your clock at home, you’ll be reminded of what you accomplished in Year 9 Industrial Tech Timber.

Advanced Theory Content (Optional)

Worksheet 1 – Weeks 1 & 2 (Safety, Measuring, Wood Types, Drilling)








Worksheet 2 – Weeks 3 & 4 (Tree Rings, Drawing, Rebates, Joining)








Worksheet 3 – Weeks 5 & 6 (Chamfers, Gluing, Drying, Final Assembly)








Worksheet 4 – Weeks 7 & 8 (Secret Drawer, Sustainability, Cutting List, Costing)








Worksheet 5 – Weeks 9 & 10 (Drawer Fit, Timber Choice, Cleaning, Tool Care)








Worksheet 6 – Weeks 11 & 12 (Risk Management, SWMS, Sanding & Surface Prep)








Worksheet 7 – Weeks 13‑15 (Finishing, Evaluation, Wrap‑Up)








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Advanced Theory Content (Optional)

Worksheet 1 – Weeks 1 & 2 (Safety, Measuring, Wood Types, Drilling)








Worksheet 2 – Weeks 3 & 4 (Tree Rings, Drawing, Rebates, Joining)








Worksheet 3 – Weeks 5 & 6 (Chamfers, Gluing, Drying, Final Assembly)








Worksheet 4 – Weeks 7 & 8 (Secret Drawer, Sustainability, Cutting List, Costing)








Worksheet 5 – Weeks 9 & 10 (Drawer Fit, Timber Choice, Cleaning, Tool Care)








Worksheet 6 – Weeks 11 & 12 (Risk Management, SWMS, Sanding & Surface Prep)








Worksheet 7 – Weeks 13‑15 (Finishing, Evaluation, Wrap‑Up)








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